Search This Blog

Wednesday, January 3, 2018

Mexico and Guanajuato

Mexico and Guanajuato

Guanajuato

April 5, 2008 

We were both so tired yesterday evening from a long day of difficult driving, that we had to drive back and forth across Zacatecas City several times to find our RV park. Our major concern was that there are clear warnings that “heavy vehicles” (those having dual rear wheels) are not allowed in the “centro” and we did not know how close we were to the centro. We have not yet been stopped by a city cop on this trip, but I thought the risk was high in Zacatecas. We had driven much of this city in our car on a previous trip, but this time we were entering from another direction and the maps were confusing. 

After stopping at the WalMart and asking directions from a cab driver, we were finally oriented and found our way OK. When we pulled into the five-star Hotel Hacienda del Bosque -- which has 30 amp electrical hookups, good water pressure and a solid WiFi signal in our motorhome -- we were almost totally exhausted, but happy to have a comfortable place to rest for a day or so. 

The difficult day started in the historic town of Guanajuato. It is a very beautiful, old colonial city that was once a very important silver mining town and the capital of Mexico. The downtown area is located in a narrow valley with ridges running in various directions. This downtown is connected to neighboring barrios on the other side of these ridges with tunnels that sometimes look like subways for autos. Apparently, many of these tunnels were constructed back in the colonial times when this city enjoyed great wealth and have not been improved upon since. As a consequence, some were built to carry horse-drawn wagons and carriages – not modern autos and trucks. The major tunnels entering the outskirts of the city are usually about 3.5 meters clearance (about 10.5 feet deep) and our motorhome is 10 feet tall, so we were very careful not to drive too close to the side of the tunnel, where the clearance is reduced by the rounded roof of the tunnel. 

We stayed in Guanajuato for two nights to give us plenty of time to visit the Basilica, museums, cafes, restaurants, universities, and parks. When we first entered the town, we found our way to a large RV park several miles from the town center. It proved to be located in a large, dusty field and my voltage meter registered only 90 volts – very weak. The temperatures were hovering around F 95 so we needed air conditioning, but the electricity was too weak. Our Mexican Camping guide suggested that there was another RV park in town within walking distance of downtown. But, finding this campground and maneuvering the traffic and tunnels would be challenging. Our choice was to walk ½ mile to the highway to catch a bus into town or to move to the other park and walk into town. We decided on the latter. 

As we approached the outskirts of downtown, we spied a tourist booth. A young man advised that we should not attempt to find our own way to the campground. There are too many tunnels and the way is very complicated. But for only 110 pesos, he would guide us. Armed with a couple of city maps, I decided that I could find my own way – with Pat in navigator’s seat. We navigated a couple of tunnels OK, then a couple of circles, a steep climb to the Panoramica road, then a sharp downhill, cobblestone street. We stopped at the top of the street to figure out the best way to navigate. It was a narrow, one-way street and we were going the wrong direction. A fellow along the street offered to stop traffic so we could travel the 100 yards to the entrance to the RV Park. It worked! When we drove into the park, our blood pressure surely dropped considerably. However, the park entrance was especially steep and I wondered if our motorhome had enough power to make it back out. 

Guanajuato Tunnel
 
Our location on a high hillside gave us a commanding view of parts of the lower city, but the 30-minute walk into the downtown area was steeply downhill. At an elevation of 7,500 feet, the air was a little thin for heavy exercise, so we were advised to take a cab back up the hill after our explorations. 

Morril RV Park
 
After walking downhill and through a tunnel, we reached the Plaza de Paz (peace plaza) --immediately in front of the dominating Basilica -- where we found peace and happiness. We enjoyed coffee in a sidewalk cafĂ©, a visit to the Plaza of Gardens and a ride up the funicular to the El Pipila monument – a tribute to one of the heroes of the revolution. We spent two days taking in Mexican history at the various museums and just goofing off. It was great! 

Plaza de la Paz
Funicular
 
One of the popular events in Guanajuato is the celebration of Cervantes, who wrote about old Don Quixote. So, you find a Don Quixote museum and statues of both Quixote and Cervantes. It’s all a fairly big deal here. 

Sancho Panza and Don Quixote
 
On the morning when we were due to leave, the tension started mounting again. We planned to drive the 10-mile panoramic highway which circles high above the city. We knew this would be a difficult drive through the various barrios and assorted tunnels, but it was early morning, we had a good night’s sleep and we seemed prepared. The first couple of miles provided excellent views of the city, a visit to an old silver mine and the traffic was light. After that, the view was less scenic, the traffic became heavier, the tunnels more numerous and the driving difficult. The drive required almost 2 hours. But at the end was a sparkling new mall with a large grocery store, where we stocked up on stuff for our trip north. As we were leaving town, a fellow on a motorcycle offered to lead us out of town. We could see our quota (toll) road a couple of blocks ahead, so we declined his kind offer. But by now we were late in starting our trip to Zacatecas and it would be a hard drive to reach it by late afternoon. 

The drive on the quota road was fairly easy, but the drive of the Panoramica road had taken it’s toll so that a couple of “power” naps were required along the way. 

It is on days like these that we sometimes wonder whether the benefits of travel in Mexico are worth the costs to our physical and mental well-being. But, usually, after a little rest, we are ready to explore the next part of Mexico. However, we also realize that someday we will reach a point where travel and explorations will no longer be worth the costs – and we will stop. It makes us wonder about the future. This trip has covered some of the areas of Mexico missed on previous trips, so could this be our last major trip to Mexico? Maybe!
 

Mexico and Harry Knowles



Uncle Harry Knowles

Engineer in Mexico

Dedicated to descendants of Shaler and Mary Knowles and those of “Wils” and Fanny Heacock who are interested in family stories.

With love to the Sterling-Heacock branch!

Mary (Heacock) Hunter, Bartlesville, OK, November 19, 1992

The Ianthus Shaler and Mary Dodge Knowles family lived in the pioneer town of Kingsley, Iowa in the late 1900's.  Fanny Knowles, a daughter, was one of their twelve children and was my Mother.  I used to like to hear her recite in a single breath the names of her brothers and sisters: “Clara, Eva, Charlie, Fanny, George, Harry, Frank, Ellen, Ralph, Fred and Charlotte”.  Their birth dates spanned 1873 to 1891.

In the same town lived another family, not as large, but this family provided three spouses for three of the Knowles family.  Joseph John Heacock was the father and Joseph Wilson, his son.  “Wils” said he fell in love with Fanny Knowles as she skated, red scarf flying, on his Father’s mill pond.

The Knowles daughters graduated from Kingsley High School.  Even in that era of male dominated society, two of them graduated from Grinnell College.  They all married and had fine families.

The six Knowles men had their pictures taken together, seated on the grassy front yard.  That picture became familiar to me through the years.  The first was Uncle Frank, Civil engineer, who brightened my tenth birthday with a letter and windfall of a ten dollar bill; Uncle Charlie, inventor, who visited the Heacocks in his red Carmen Ghia, when he was in his nineties; Uncle Harry, civil engineer who worked as mining engineer in Mexico; Uncle Fred, renowned orthopedic surgeon; Uncle Ralph, who after military service operated a radio station; and Uncle George, mortician and merchant.

“Wils” Heacock and Fanny Knowles married in Kingsley in 1899 and after 1913 lived in Edinburg, Texas, lower Rio Grande Valley.  Our family included six children, dates spanning from 1900 to 1919: Richard, Dorothy, Esther, Mary, Steven and Joe.  “Mama”, I’d say, “How did your Mama manage a dozen children?”  “Well,” she would answer, “We all arrived one at a time, then we all took turns helping with cooking, sewing, outside chores, washing, ironing, and helping in the hardware store”.  Iowa relatives lived far away from us in those times.  Cousins, double cousins, aunts and uncles, and grandma and grandpa Knowles faded in my memory.

It must have been about 1914 when the Heacock kids in Edinburg, out of school for the hot summer, were hosts to two of their double cousins, Hugh (11) and Ralph (6) Knowles.  They went barefoot most of the time, as I did, and spoke Spanish like Rita our Mexican “girl”.  Papa spoke of the boys as “smart”.  I found them a little intimidating, hence exciting.  They had spent all but one year of their lives with their parents in Gomez Palacio, Durango Mexico.  Uncle Harry Knowles and Papa’s sister Marguerite were their parents.

Years later this visit by the sons of Uncle Harry sparked my interest in the many letters my Mother received from him in 1956.  It seemed that Steven Heacock, family traveler-historian, had driven through northern Mexico that year, in the area Uncle Harry had lived with his family and worked as an engineer.  Steven’s pictures and questions plus the many “primings of the pump” by Mother, brought sixty two (62) letters from Harry, about his work there.  They were short letters.  Each shifted in place and subject.  They were like a jig saw puzzle to be put together for a vivid picture of life there until 1915.

In one letter Uncle Harry wrote, “I’d hate to edit these notes into chronological order!”  I couldn’t, and did not.  My story will be only a taste of his vividly remembered years.

Uncle Harry not once mentioned “Culture shock” which he must have felt, when he arrived in the state of Durango.  He left friends and family, green fertile Iowa.  This land was parched; sometimes only four inches of rain fell a year.  Sierra Madre mountains closed in the high desert country on the east and west.  Rivers were scarce; water courses began, continued some miles, then disappeared.  Such was the Nazas River.  Gathering run off from mountains in the west, it wandered through the parched land, giving green life along its banks, through Gomez Palacio and Lerdo then disappeared in stark canyons south of Saltillo.

“I boarded a boat for Galveston”, he wrote, “through Texas to Durango”.  How simple that sounds.  Not so simple in 1905 (?).  Aunt Marguerite came to Mexico with him later, after he learned how connection were made by horseback or buggy, wagon or coach, or train if available.  He told of a coach and six which met trains in Gomez Palacio.  He must have used the rails through Texas to Nuevo Laredo, Monterrey, Saltillo, then Durango . . . . . . Coaches were not new to him.  After Ames and Columbia in 1898, he and his brother Frank rode prairie schooner, mountain coach and saddle horses to explore Yellowstone.  Forested Yellowstone was in sharp contrast to the desert country of northern Mexico with its cactus, mesquite, ocotillo, blazing sun reflecting on high, dry land.

His first job as mining engineer was with Turissimo, a boston owned mining corporation.  Rich deposits of gold and silver were there, as well as iron, zinc, copper and lead.  These metals had been mined from Aztec time to the Spanish conquest.

“At San Luis were four mines, values mostly in copper, some silver and a little gold.  Some ore was shipped as is, some was crushed, run over concentrating wet tales and shipped to Velordena Smelter.  We were penalized for any zinc in the ore . . . One mine north of Tlahualilo finally ran 35% zinc and was abandoned.  But when the war (WW I) broke out he went back and shipped the ore, for the zinc made a million.”

Uncle harry writes: “This is not the story of a train load of silver bullion; it is the real McCoy.  About 45 tons of silver in pigs was loaded into seven stock cars at Mapino, sold to American Smelting Co and thru Gomez Palacio was headed toward Monterrey, reached a point east where the train was burned.  The silver melted and lay on the road bed 4" thick.  There was no one near when I saw it first.  Three months later Pancho Villa’s men were whacking at it, tried to sell it a most sea ports, no dice.  The third time six months, I was bound for Gomez Palacio.  The owners were cutting out one foot blocks square and hauling it away, using donkeys, I think . . . . . About this same location Potter and I were going toward Gomez on a Ry coach, eating good cold beans out of a can when over the N. 80 yards were THREE SKELETONS perfectly erect, bones polished by sun and sand.  This will give you an idea what I meant at the beginning, saying that I would omit some things.

It was reassuring to know that the Knowles family had a “very comfortable house” in Gomez Palacio, “one long room clear across, then four rooms across the back.  It even had electricity.  At that location, next door, a rich man, Ugarde, built around a block with a back street coach entrance.  At dusk the merry widow would regale in glittering attire and big grand piano, open windows so the public could view”.  The only family guests he mentions were “Mama and Papa . . . Papa brought his hunting trunk”.  That was 1907.  Their son Ralph was born their in ‘09.

Chelina, the cook is mentioned in his letters several times.  I doubt that Chelina would qualify after Aunt Marguerite came to Mexico, and had charge of the house-hold.  He writes, “she (Chelina) 4' 9", 84 pounds and 84 years old, could roll a corn shuck with one hand and biscuits with the other.  Got on a binge every two weeks.  Once she was off a few days, had fallen in a ravine.

“A 1100 pound fat steer cost $11.00 for the commissary.  Kept pretty good in that high and dry.  One time I went back and noticed a leg bone a bit too animated and had it thrown over a cliff.  Chelina was looking.  The next day I walked into the kitchen, ‘Chelina, in the name of heaven what is that odor?’  She half covered her face.  ‘Es mi caldo’!

“At 11:00 AM the children at Turrissima would carry the hot tortillas and dinners 1000 feet straight up the mountain to the miners.  Chelina would scamper along.  I knew of a ‘runner’ who would make 80 miles in 18 hours.”

“ . . . . I had my tents, camp and cook, a Chinese at Cordova.  Did not get to Gomez Palacio except on weeks ends.  Has a small steamer trunk on two short logs, 14" in diameter.  Shoes etc. on dirt floor.  I heard it raining hard.  A flash of lightening revealed apparel floating about.  I rolled over and got more sleep.  I think it rained twelve inches that night.  Right before the rain at midnight an old man right in front of the tent was singing, ‘Gracias a Dio-o-os’ over and over.  Water had come down the canal to his little patches.”  In searching for mineral properties Uncle Harry was involved one time in sleeping “in an enormous cave, and in a cabin on the side of a mountain so steep that rocks, loosened by goats above, rolled down and landed on the roof.”

Reduced prices for copper and lead in world markets shut down most of the mines.  Uncle Harry was immediately engaged as engineer of the Compania Agricola and Colonisadora del Tlahualilio, state of Durango.  Water diverted from the Nazas River would irrigate vast acreage for crops.  The 200,000 acre plantations belonged to a British-American company, close to Lerdo and Torreon.

He writes: “The Rio Nazas drains a mountain area of 30,000 square miles and discharges in flood, 50,000 cubic feet per second . . . With water, the land is worth $150 or more; without water, $4.00.”

To oversee 20,000 acres of brush clearing and supervise the exact level of grading by hundred of laborers, required countless miles of horseback riding . . . . “I frequently made trips on horse, alone.  I was going east across the level country.  In the distance appeared two horsemen.  I always had a Big Blue colt.  Big shot Mexicans all carried a carbine or 30-30 in addition.  As the two men came withing 150 yards they both reached down and pulled the thong which held their lariat.  I know it was just in fun but I pulled the 38-44 into view and they passed on by.  In this part of the country two horses passing that was would always stop of their own accord until the riders passed the time of day, week or month. . ‘Como esta su papa, mama, y mi compadre . . . Houses were generally 20 miles apart.”

“In the States we have a habit of ridiculing everything elsewhere.  One day I was on the outskirts of Lerdo I noticed a heavy two wheeled ox cart come from the direction of Nazas.  They unhitched and turned the oxen out to feed on grass.  They had come 150 miles from the north of Durango, parallel the rail road, with about ten bales of cotton, competing with the railroad! . . . . When I was there, the city of Torreon passed an ordinance requiring all men to come to town with pants on.  You see they had worn a sheet folded into a diaper.”

“One April 16 I was in the Pullman to Durango.  Southwest of Nazas looking out at the fields, groups of peons planting corn, soil reddish black and beautiful, as we passed, the laborers knelt and touched the forehead to the earth.  I asked an American by me what it meant.  He raised his eyes to the man in the seat ahead; he was the Bishop who had visited all these places the week before to bless the earth, soil, people and all . . . you know where I get that ‘April 16th?’  Not from a diary, for I never even wrote down the day I was born, It should have been the day to plant corn!”

“One of my duties in 1907-1908 was to measure the water we received each day, about one half mile down our canal, also the kilometer readings of all 13 canals.  It was an hour’s LABOR to lower just on the gate.  I had one illiterate Indio, couldn’t even make a number, take a trip on the trolley and come back and from some marks (not even hieroglyphics, give me the canal reading in meters and centimeters, and they were right I checked!

Uncle Harry made a good life for his family and himself on the plantation.  He writes, “The plantation was delightful with every modern convenience with tennis courts, automobiles and riding horses.  Christmas dinners were something to dream about, topped off with burning plum pudding”.  But there were boundary disputes and all kinds of threatening situations, especially as banditry worsened.  He learned early to “be agreeable, act dumb, show your teeth, but with a smile”.  In his daily work he used “as much diplomacy as engineering”. . . (Rex Hunter said the same thing for his engineering work in England . . M.H.)

“When Hugh was seven years old and Ralph was two, Hugh attended a German school with three other children in Lerdo.  Not a log cabin but half a mud room.  At the age of seven they all spoke perfectly three languages, chatter away in any of the languages arithmetic with equal facility and no confusion . . . We all belonged to THE German Club, American Club and Cosmopolitan Club in Torreon.  The Cosmopolitan always in silk hats and tails and gowns from Paris.  But the Germans were the honestest and soberest.”

The revolutionary movement began during the peaceful time of old Porfirio Diaz, when bands of the poor from the north Durango desert roved, burning trains and taking what they wanted and needed.  That was rough on plantation life.  Government soldiers (federales) tried to put down the revolt but destruction and unrest lasted from 1910-1917.  Even in the Rio Grande Valley rumors of possible raids by Pancho Villa kept all on the alert.  Uncle Harry writes, “These bands would drop in on us for food and money.  To them the plantation was an oasis.  I remember one year this direct loss amounted to $40,000.  On one occasion they drove 500 of our best mules hitched to wagons loaded with provisions.

“Four carloads of us made a rainy drive to Lerdo.  With no lights, all I had to watch was the lightning along the road tracks.  1500 rebels had been stationed at Campana all afternoon.  The Colonel with 500 men at 7 PM advised he might not be able to hold out.  I know it would be a hard trip; we later learned the rebels were within 200 yards at the bridge when we passed at 9 PM.  The young Mexican driver and I were in the big black 1906 Maxwell.  The other cars had gone on.  In the car I had a trophy of a six shooter given me by a bandit and I had three shells to fit it.  The car went dead with 19 miles to go.  I fumbled with the Bosch Magneto to no avail; turned on the acetylene lights a second when “pow pow” overhead.  They sounded like 75 M.M. the way they whistled.  We jumped out and hid to see what next.  Right alongside our big canal and I knew the country better than they did.  Nothing happened.  Saw a night fire of some irrigators ahead and off the road.  Sent the boy driver to get a pair of mules to pull us to Lerdo.  Reached there at 3 AM.

“When the revolt first broke out there was quite a colony of Americans at Valardena, well armed.  When the rebels got in range, they cut loose and the Mexicans fled.  The next day there were 1500 rebels, no shooting.  The Americans were lined up to the wall, rebels raised their rifles a minute, lowered them, told the Americans to leave and stay left.  Then minutes later the Americans crossed the border 500 miles away!

“Boundaries were changed and plantation confiscated.  Where we fed 8,000 people, a thousand now starve.  In 1915 I saw a 140,000 improved hacienda go completely to pot confiscated and didn’t feed 200.  It was a horrible sight.  I drove through it before and after . . .

The constant threat of raids, confiscations and physical danger made life difficult for the Knowles family and everyone else.  In 1912 Hugh and Ralph traveled back and forth from Texas and Mexico between school semesters.  In 1915 the whole family moved to San Antonio then later to Birmingham, closing their pioneer years in Mexico.

After the sixty two letters Uncle Harry wrote his sister Fanny, mostly during ‘56, his letters slowly came to and end.  The more he wrote, the more fascinating experiences he remembered.  He brought that pioneering, changing era to life; he showed respect for the abilities of Mexicans he worked with.  Using his diplomacy and skills, he managed to successfully perform his work as mining and agricultural engineer.  I wish I could have visited the family in Gomez Palacio, without the rebels! 

Note: Attached to this story was a letter written to Fanny Heacock on 08/07/1959 from Harry.

Dear Fanny,

An inaccurate glance at the history of N. Central Mex. In about 1940 was “granted” by her Highness to the Marquis Kee de Arguaye, Durango, Coahuila Saltillo, Torreon and N to the big bend.  Near Torreon the Rio Nazas divided Durango from Coahuila.  In the Laguna District there were four major owners . . . . Lavin, a Spaniard married a Mexican had 4 sons in the 1870's.  Our big canal went right thru his land nearly all the way and he fought its construction all the way.  A large gorgeous well was reputedly poisoned 12 miles out, but never used again.  It had a 14" X 14" X 34 fit poplar timber across the top and 3 ft above the oxen’s heads as they rotated the water out.

The oldest son dropped dead as he was pardoned and taken from the jail.  (Right in front of my office.)  I knew the others.  Boy could they shoot a 45 automatic.  The youngest born 1880 educated in St Louis and would mount his bride on a bronc.  He ran the plantation 11 mi N. Of Gomez. Came in one evening and found no meal prepared, shot the cook.  But when it came his turn to die, laid down with tears and begged his executioners to let him go, where that hujan (sic) just thumbed his nose.


Love, Harry
 

Mexican Gruta de San Gabriel

Mexico Gruta de San Gabriel

January 26, 2002

While driving the Honda on a five-day loop through the state of Colima, we happened upon a highway sign which displayed an icon that looked like an Aztec pyramid.  On a whim, we decided to check it out.  Our maps and tour guides said nothing about any ancient ruins in the area, so we were somewhat skeptical.  A lady behind the counter of a small country store explained that the sign was for the Gruta (cavern) of San Gabriel.  “Just ask for information in the town of Ixtlahuacan,” she said.  

“How far is it?” I asked.

“Maybe ten minutes,” she replied.

“That won’t take long,” I said to Pat.  “Let’s check it out.”

“OK, but don’t think that I am going into any cave,” Pat warned.


We entered Ixtlahuacan in about five minutes and saw a sign pointing to the gruta.  Figuring that it was only about five minutes further, we proceeded without asking for additional information.  OK, so you guessed it!  The lady at the store meant that the distance to Ixtlahuacan was ten minutes – not the distance to the cave.  But Pat and I did not know it at the time, so we proceeded down a dusty, cobblestone road through fields of irrigated corn and cantaloupe.  We added a Stripe-headed sparrow to our list.  Maybe three miles later we saw another sign directing us to turn right.  We started up a narrow valley and climbed steeply.  Loose rocks on the cobblestone road would sometimes slip under the tires and make a disturbing, grinding noise.  We stopped at some flowering trees to observe several warblers and listen to loud Chachalacas out in the bush before continuing.  The climb continued on and on.  After maybe 30 minutes, I asked Pat if we should give up and turn around.  “I would have turned around long ago if I were driving,” she said.

“Maybe just a little further,” I suggested.  We ultimately reached the top of the mountain and looked far down into the valley we had left earlier.  Another sign suggested that maybe the gruta was not far ahead, but now we could see another valley on the other side of the mountain where our road could be seen below.  “Can’t turn around here,” I said.  “Road’s too narrow.”  When we finally found a place to turn around, an old Ford station wagon filled to overflowing with people met us and stopped.  I gave him my usual greeting of, “Hola, como esta?”  

He smiled and returned the greeting.  If my translation is correct, the driver said, “The gruta is both beautiful and terrible.  Go thru the gate and turn right by the big Higuera (fig) tree and continue until you see a sign for the gruta.  Someone will come with a small electrical generator which will make light for viewing the cavern.” 

“How far ahead?” I asked.

“About five minutes,” he said.

We found our way past the flimsy wire gate, by a braying donkey, a very small brick church, around a sleeping dog, several brick homes in various stages of completion, the huge fig tree and finally the gruta sign.  “Where do we go now?” Pat wondered aloud.

Tree roots, worn by foot traffic, suggested a trail down an embankment.  And, sure enough, down through the trees, we could see the opening of a large hole in the rocks.  A big fig tree grew on the lip of the hole and its roots extended down into the hole.  A metal staircase wound around a 4- inch iron pipe down into the depths of the hole.  We looked hard to see if we could see the bottom.  Stepping out onto the top of the stairs caused them to sway under our weight.  This movement did not instill great confidence in the stability of the structure and I seriously considered a hasty retreat.

Then, a man and woman drove up in an old pickup truck.  “We have a generator and will light up the gruta for only 70 pesos,” he said.  “It is beautiful and it will make you very happy.  I will show you the way.”

“Bueno,” I said, somewhat reluctantly.   

“No way,” said Pat.

So Pat and my guide’s wife stood up on the lip of the cavern and watched as the man trotted out onto the rickety stairs and started down rapidly.  I followed much more cautiously and slowly.  The stairs swayed and I dared not look down.  As we approached the bottom, my eyes adjusted to the dim light coming from the sky and I could see my guide entering a small hole in one side of the bottom.  “Oh no!” I thought to myself.  “I’m gonna have to squeeze through a tiny hole into the darkness below.”  Visions of having to dive underwater in the dark -- like they do on TV -- clouded my mind.  When I reached the hole, it was a little bigger than I had first imagined.  A rickety metal ladder was perched on the edge of the hole.  

“Be very careful and watch your head,” said my guide.  

“Not to worry,” I thought.  As I stepped gingerly onto the first rung of the ladder, the ladder slipped away from the wall, so I readjusted my weight over the ladder and stepped again.  Now I could see that my guide was standing below, steadying the ladder as I descended.  After reaching the bottom, it was clear that we were standing on a large pile of rocks.  Below the rocks was a large room, dimly illuminated by several bare electric bulbs.  I dismissed from my mind what we would do if the electric generator died and stranded us in the darkness. 

“Be very careful on the rocks and watch your head,” my guide again commanded.

Again, if my translation is correct, he told the following story.  “This cave was once home to some very rich people.  In here they lived like royalty.  Far back in this dark corner is a tiny hole that leads to another room that is filled with a large pile of pure gold coins.  A man and woman once tried to reach the coins and were turned to stone.  See the column of stone on the left is the woman and the one on the right is the man.  No one tries to get to the gold anymore for fear of being turned into stone.”

He spoke with such authority that to ask how the rich folks got the gold into the other room seemed inappropriate.  I took a few photos of my guide standing by some stalagmites and he took one of me.  There were apparently no other rooms to the cavern that we could visit, so after only a few minutes, we climbed back up the rock pile, the rickety ladder, through the small hole, and up the circular staircase.  During the climb, my guide asked, “How old are you?” (He must have wondered how sound my heart was.)  

Win in the Cave

I replied that I was 65.  “Don’t worry, I am in fairly good health.”

“How old are you?” I asked.  

“I am only 60,” he replied.  “You are older than I am,” he assured me.  

When we reached the surface, Pat seemed glad to see me.  After paying my guide, we retraced our route over and down the mountain.  I wondered about getting all that gold myself, but considering the certainty of being turned into stone, I decided that maybe my life is OK just as it is -- without piles of gold.
 

Mexico A Good Day


Mexico A Good Day
 
March 15, 2002

The RV Park near Agua Dulce, Veracruz has a poor reputation.  The electricity is very weak, ungrounded and the polarity is reversed.  Often there is no water pressure and the place is poorly maintained.  Otherwise, it enjoys an attractive setting and is the only RV park between Catemaco and Palenque, which is a very long drive for one day.  We chose to pass the Aqua Dulce park on the way to Palenque and suffered the consequences of a very long drive in the rain.  On the way back, we decided to stay at Agua Dulce -- even if it meant camping with no hookups.  

Agua Dulce is also very near a favorite spot for birders, but in recent years the fields where the special birds were found were converted into a tree farm.  However, the RV park is located on the edge of a large marsh, so we decided to spend a day or so searching for marsh birds.  Arriving at Agua Dulce in mid-afternoon meant that we had time for birding the remainder of the afternoon.  We headed north through town and past a large Pemex refinery.  In the town of Tonala, we stopped by the zocalo (main plaza) to photograph an interesting old church.  A bunch of Mexican kids were passing by after school.  I asked them if it would be OK to take their photos.  One of the older ones said it would be OK if I paid him.  I told him that I would not pay, but would anyone else like to be photographed.  A couple of the younger kids were eager to be photographed for free.  I took their photo and then showed it to them on the LCD screen of my digital camera.  They were so vocal with delight at seeing themselves so quickly, that all the others now wished to have their photos taken too.  They clowned for the camera and I took several photos.  One of the boys suggested that I take a photo of a chunky, bashful little girl he called “Gordita.” and her friend.  The boys could not resist crowding in behind the girls to make finger horns on the girl's heads.

After leaving the kids, we took the ferry across the Rio Tonala into the state of Tabasco and explored the coast.  We found many foundations of homes and assumed some storm had demolished the structures.  Heading east along the coast, we reached the small village of Pailebot.  A couple of hundred yards south of the town, we stopped in a marshy area along the only highway through town.  A hawk flew across the marsh and landed on a bare limb, giving us an excellent view of its breast.  We had just seen our first black-collared hawk.  The birds were plentiful and the diversity was outstanding, but we saw no other new birds to add to our list.


Black-Collared Hawk
 
We continued birding along the highway and every few minutes a local citizen drove by mostly on bikes and three-wheeled bike taxis they call a “trinci taxi.” The birds seemed largely unperturbed by this activity so our birding was largely uninterrupted.  We exchanged smiles and “buenos tardes” and continued our birding.  After maybe an hour of delightful birding in this one spot, we hurried back to our motorhome in the fading daylight.

The birding had been so much fun that we decided to spend another day in the area.  On our Guia Roji maps of Mexico, we noticed an icon indicating that there was an archeological site in the nearby town of La Venta, so decided to drop by and check it out.  We developed an immediate liking for the town and its large marketplace.  Though still early in the morning, the market was busy.  A lady selling fish asked if I wanted to take her photo.  She held up an alligator gar and posed.  She seemed very satisfied when I showed her the picture.  The fruits and vegetables were displayed so artfully and colorfully that another series of photos were required. 


Lady with Gar
 
On the north side of town, we came upon the archeological site and an Olmec museum.  Two very large, carved rock Olmec heads greeted us in the entry.  One had a somber expression and the other a toothy smile.  They are about six feet tall and may weigh up to 20 tons.  No one seems to know how these giant rocks found their way out into the marsh.  Olmecs are thought to be the inventors of the numerical and calendrical systems used throughout this area of Mexico.  But birding beckoned and just north of town, the marshes began and extended for mile after mile.  Pat said, “Stop and back up; I just saw a big bird.”  Sure enough, the “big bird” was still there after we backed up.  It was our first view of a large Pinnated Bittern that was so busy catching frogs that it largely ignored us even though it was very close to the road.  There were so many birds in the marsh that we moved very slowly on the narrow, paved road that carried mostly Pemex Oil vehicles.  Since there was no or little shoulder, we pulled off to the far right side of the pavement, turned on our flashers and hoped no one would run over us.  Mexican drivers are accustomed to cars, trucks, and animals stopped on the road and the traffic was relatively light so we caused no problems – in fact, most drivers waved and smiled as they passed. 

The marshes were almost all under water.  However, fences surrounded marsh pastures and Brahma cattle sought islands where they could rest on dry terrain.  However, to find grass, it was necessary for the cattle to enter the marsh.  Mostly they were knee deep, but a few were belly deep in water as they grazed among the palmettos.  Some seemed to actually be floating and swimming.  We chatted with one rancher who arrived on the local bus.  He seemed to be very glad to see us and shook our hands.  However, he was then a little disappointed when he found that we were not the archeologists that he was expecting to come explore the Olmec ruins on his property.  He explained that there were lots of birds on the island we could see maybe a half-mile from the road.  The island contained a small house, a corral, several trees and a higher mound on one end that looked like possible Olmec ruins.  “The birds eat all my fruit,” he complained.  A young man rode up on his bike and we shook hands again.  They both climbed into a rickety boat and poled their way toward the island.  We debated trying to wrangle an invitation to visit his island but decided that the birding was great anyway and we had miles to go. 


Grazing in belly deep water
 
We continued birding along the road toward the town of Benito Juarez, then north to our favorite spot at Pailebot where we had been the previous evening.  By then it was mid-morning, but the birding was still great.  The birds are usually too far away to show up well in my 3X lens, so I resorted to taking sneaky photos of the locals.  It is generally considered bad manners to take photos of someone without their permission, but I wished to obtain unposed photos.  So as they approached on bikes or trinci taxis, I pretended to take a photo of the marsh, then lowered the camera to my chest and took a blind shot of them as they passed.  With my free hand, I waved so that I could get a photo of them waving back.  Although my aim was imperfect, we got some acceptable shots.  One older fellow in a Trinci Taxi gave me a very stern look as he passed, but his wife smiled and waved.  Later, we met them again standing along the main road to Sanchez Magallanes waiting for a bus.  She pointed her index finger in such as way that it was clear she was asking for a ride.  As they were entering the car, she indicated by sign that her husband was blind – which helped explain the stern look he had given us earlier.


Family Bike
 
We chatted easily as we traveled.  He explained that they were Evangelical Christians and owned a coconut plantation.  But the price of coconuts was very low now -- only 220 pesos per Kilo (We assume that he meant this was the price he was paid for a kilogram of dried coconut meat or copra).  On top of that, the coconuts on average are smaller than they once were.  Several years ago only five coconuts produced a kilogram (of copra?) but now nine are required.  “What accounts for the difference?” I asked.    

“It is the chemicals in the air from the Pemex refineries,” he claimed.  We had noticed lots of dead and dying coconut trees closer to the refineries and the health of trees seemed much better with distance from the refinery. 

“We can get five pesos for a cold coconut for drinking, but the demand is not good.  There is also little demand in the world for dried coconut meat.”  

We wondered when was the last time that we bought a package of coconut meat or ate a coconut pie.  Have you ever seen an ad for coconut meat on prime-time TV?  Even the Mexicans spend an estimated 40% of their income on soft drinks, not coconut milk. 


Coconut Copra
   
We did not get detailed information on the cost of producing coconuts, but there is a great deal of labor involved, not only in the growing of the trees but in the harvest.  Collecting the coconut from high atop a palm-like tree would not be easy.  Cracking the nut and removing the copra would be labor intensive.  “It takes about three days for the meat to dry in the sun,” he said. 

We let the blind man and wife off at the zocalo (main plaza) in Sanchez Magallanes and found a restaurant on the water where we lunched on pescado vericruzano (fish cooked Veracruz style) and sopa de pescado (fish soup).  A collapsed tower stood nearby.  I asked the waiter what had caused the collapse.  “It was the hurricane of 1985," he said.  This fact seemed to explain the destroyed homes we had seen earlier.


Pescado Vericruzano
 
We drove across the bridge where, at an army checkpoint, we were asked for our passports.  We had not carried them with us, but I guess we didn’t look much like terrorists so they let us pass.  We continued along the beach and joined some fishermen on the beach (see other story).  

As we drove back to the motorhome, we agreed that it had been a good day.  Then we began to wonder what exactly defines a good day in Mexico.  We normally define a good day in Mexico as one where several new birds were added to our list.  But there is much more to Mexico than birds.  Maybe we can find some other definition of a “good day” where we had great fun without finding any new birds.

Now, we have decided that another simple criteria of a good day, is one where we have seen enough different and interesting scenes to have taken lots of photos.   

Birds seen at El Pailebot: Black-collared Hawk, Snail Kite, Pinnated Bittern, Buff-bellied Hummingbird, Blue-gray Tanager, Limpkin, Reddish Egret, Ringed Kingfisher, Yellow Warbler, Great Egret, Snowy Egret, Great Blue Heron, Little Blue Heron, Green Heron, Brown Jay, Black-crowned Night Heron, Common Yellow Throat, Jacana, Black-bellied Whistling Duck, Great-tailed Grackle, Turkey Vulture, Yellow-headed Vulture, Northern Waterthrush, Least Grebe, Laughing Falcon, Kiskadee, Double-crested Cormorant, Cattle Egret and White-faced Ibis.

Our count was 180 photos, and many new birds -- which certainly qualified it as a good day.
 


Mexico and Fishing in Tabasco


Mexico and Fishing in Tabasco
 
March 15, 2002

Exploring the Gulf Coast of Tabasco, Mexico, the highway disappeared into the surf at the little town of El Alacran.  Located due south of about the longitude of Beaumont, Texas, El Alacran – or what is left of it -- can be found on the coast of the southern Gulf of Mexico.  Evidently, a hurricane back in 1985 washed away part of the coast here and the highway disintegrated.  An un-maintained dirt road through a coconut plantation continued on east to the town of Paraiso, but it looked rough, and a rope tied to coconut palm trees blocked the entry.  The guard told us that a 10-peso toll was required to use his private road.  We had been looking for an excuse to turn around, but the views of the remote beaches, gentle surf, coconut palms and interesting people had kept us going longer than planned.  We found our excuse.  

But then, we saw a group of fishermen pulling on a rope which led out into the surf.  On a whim, we decided to help, and in the process, take a few photos.  We had watched other fishermen use their boats to deploy the long nets, which circled out about a kilometer and back to the beach.  So we sorta knew what was going on.  But pulling this long net and its captured fish is much more laborious than we had imagined.  Guess they could not afford a tractor to pull in the nets.




We started with the idea of taking turns on the ropes so that we could have photos of ourselves pretending to be fishermen.  But then we became more and more interested in the drama that would transpire when the fish were pulled up on the beach.  At the beginning, the nets were too far offshore to be visible.  Even the floats holding up the net were invisible.  All we could see were ropes leading far out into the waters of the Gulf.  The cool appearance of the blue-green water contrasted with the mostly breeze-less heat and humidity on the beach.  We could only assume that there was a net at the end of the rope.  The workers used broad, homemade harnesses which looped around their waists and attached temporarily to the main net rope.  They pulled on the rope using this harness while walking back up the beach.  When soft sand was reached, the harness was detached and the worker rotated to the front of the line, in about ankle-deep water, and re-attached the rope.  The strategy seemed to be to always pull on firm sand and waste no energy slipping in soft sand.  Before re-attaching the harness, they rubbed a handful of wet sand on the main rope to ensure a better grip by the attaching device.  When a wave or swell moved toward the beach, the pulling became temporarily easier, but generally, the pulling was hard and slow.  Pat and I continued to take turns on the rope, but without harnesses, we depended on pulling by hand.

Pat helping pull in the net

The crew was composed of about five men, a couple of women and a handful of kids.  When the kids got hot, they would stop pulling and frolic in the cool water.  Then they formed a circle around me to see the photos of themselves on the LCD screen of the digital camera.  With each photo, they became a little braver and animated in performing for the camera.  They laughed and kidded each other about the photos of themselves.  The men and women threw cool water on their heads and arms when they rotated to the front.  Pat and I regretted that we had not worn bathing suits so we could cool off with the kids.  Instead, we cooled under the shade of coconut trees, where a young man was trying to open a coconut with a ballpoint pen.  The pen was destroyed in the process, but eventually, a hole was made big enough for a straw.  He seemed to enjoy the drink. 


The “work” continued for over an hour.  Our hands were red and our shirts wet with sweat.  As the net came closer to the beach, other local folks drifted out of the village to help.  At long last, the first part of the net reached the beach and some fish were removed.  A few small fish could be seen jumping over the net to freedom.  Finally the net – heavy with fish – was drug onto the beach by the 30 people now assembled.  The birds, which had been watching from offshore, now became braver and circled closer and closer to this abundant source of protein and the people nearby.  Royal Terns, Forrester’s Terns, Laughing Gulls and Frigate Birds were somehow programmed to circle primarily in a counter-clockwise direction, out over the waves and in upwind, over the beach.  Brown Pelicans, apparently not so adept at pilfering fish off the sand, simply waited out in the water for their turn.  The Frigate Birds were the most adept at picking the small “trash” fish off the beach without even having to hover like the gulls.  They simply flew low over the fish and reached down with their long, hooked beaks to pluck the fish -- much like a Skimmer catching fish while flying along the surface with its lower mandible in the water – both use their incredible reflexes to secure a hold on the fish.




Most of the fish caught in the net were too small to keep.  They were simply left on the beach for the birds.  As the tide rose, their dead bodies were washed out to the waiting Brown Pelicans.  Of the keepers, a fish they called the Cerro (maybe a mackerel) was the most abundant, followed by the La Peye fish.  Several boxes were filled with these fish and carried to a waiting pickup truck for transport to the local market.  When I asked about the value of all these fish, the answer was, “About one thousand pesos,” – roughly $110.  Of course, not all the fish were sold, some were kept by helpers from the village as payment for their assistance.  The kids took home bags of fish too little for the market, but big enough to put into a pot of fish soup.  Other fish caught were Ribbon Fish, Needle Fish, Perch, Sheep’s Head and other colorful little fish we could not identify.  I didn’t ask why they chose not to use a net with a bigger mesh that would allow the little fish through and catch only the bigger fish.  After all, if they left the little fish, some would someday grow into more desirable larger fish.  I also wondered why the small fish did not have some value as bait fish for fishermen who use line and bait techniques for fishing.  Certainly, the birds seemed to benefit from the free lunch -- or does this easy source of food impair their natural fishing skills?  Anyway, I guess we are not immune from the tendency of cultures to criticize other cultures that they know little about. 




As we prepared to leave, I offered the boss twenty pesos for the photos I took.  He looked sort of embarrassed and, unlike Mexicans in the tourist areas, refused.  Then he offered us some of the fish.  I was afraid the fish might spoil in our hot car before we could return to the motorhome, so we declined his offer even though our labor might have actually earned a couple of fish. 



When we said our goodbyes, the primary fishermen still had to clean the nets, boat and prepare/repair the nets for fishing another day.  The life of a fisherman in Tabasco is certainly not easy.  They engage in strenuous labor for very little pay.  But they all seemed happy and healthy and are very friendly folks.  Seems that Mexicans that live way off the tourist track are more naturally and enthusiastically friendly than those in the tourist areas.

We left with red hands, sweaty bodies, lots of photos and very satisfied with the experience.  The temporary bond that we shared with these folks seemed mutually genuine.  It reminded me of the good-natured exchanges that I had with the Mexican laborers that worked on our farm during my youth.  However, I was also smugly content with the notion that fishing for a living on the coast of Tabasco was not necessary for my survival.