Mexican Cloud Forest
March 18, 2001
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Mountain Trogon |
After a rather uneventful trip from Donna, TX. to Cd. Victoria and an overnight stay at the Best Western Hotel ($80/night), my wife Pat and I reached the foothills of the Sierra Madre Oriental Mountains in Northeast Mexico. A quick stop by the small town of Nacimiento yielded a few warblers and Social Flycatchers along the small river before we started the climb up into the mountains and the cloud forest of El Cielo Biosphere Preserve. The first ridge revealed the quaint, little town of Gomez Farias where we filled an entry form for the Preserve (no charge) and explored the mostly one-street town. (So far, my ragged Spanish – mostly unused for the last 30 years or so – had been sufficient to obtain whatever we need. Our luck was holding!) The major activity in town was the play of schoolchildren in their blue uniforms and the harvest, packing and hauling of new, edible, cactus leaves (nopalitos). At least two nopalito packing sheds appeared in competition on the main street. Mango trees lined the road. The pavement ended on the far side of the town and we started on a rocky road up the side of the first mountain. This road had been built by loggers who had harvested the cloud forest timber about 30 years ago. A maintenance crew with shovels and wheelbarrows met us about halfway to the top of this second climb. A young worker pulled their camionetta (pickup truck) close to the steep edge so that we could pass. We smiled, waved and extended our “buenos dias” and they replied “andale” or something similar. The views of Gomez Fairas far below and the agricultural fields of edible cactus, sorghum, sugar cane, citrus, mango, etc. provided dramatic scenery – enough to excite the dedicated landscape painter. Smoke from a couple of small, burning sugarcane fields rose in tall plumes above the level plains.
The climb continued up and down – but mostly up – till the small ejido of El Cima appeared in a scenic mountain valley. Ejidos sprouted like weeds all over Mexico after one of their more socialistic revolutions and the government confiscated land and gave very small allotments to the poor. Usually on the poorest of land and in such small acreages that survival was dicy. They were mostly “goat and ax” type operations. I once read somewhere that the destruction of nature on this earth is not mostly by giant bulldozers and logging operations, but by poor, small families with goats that eat almost anything and an owner with an axe to cut down anything that got in his way. I don’t know whether this statement is true or not, but it is believable. But do we blame these poor folks for the destruction that they do? They are just making a living like the rest of us. Most have no idea of the cumulative harm to the planet that their small herd of goats and their ax cause. Those who fought for and developed the El Cielo Preserve believe that it is only through education that the preservation of this particular portion of our natural environment is possible. Signs in the preserve encourage the conservation of the flora and fauna, but the goats and axes still operate on a small scale.
Anyway, at El Cima community we passed another guardhouse where our entry permit was reviewed. We planned to stay at the small hotel there and understood that we might find guides at the local cafĂ© who could show us some birds. The first person we met in the town was a fellow gringo named John Drawe. He was very friendly, informative and was supervising a group of high school students from the USA, who were doing some sort of missionary project to help the local Mexicans for a couple of days. They were to hold services later if we wished to attend. We declined their kind invitation. John informed me that he was “Special Projects Manager” at the Experiment Station in Weslaco and a friend of Fanny and Buddy Ross. Turns out that we knew many of the same people since I had once worked for the same outfit. They suggested that we should park our car and spend the night at the local hotel because the road on up the mountain was too rough for our 4-wheel Honda CRV. It likely did not have enough clearance to make it over the larger rocks in the road. I took a photo of the whole group and we parted company. We met a fellow named Marcello a little further up the road, sitting on a log outside the small El Cima Hotel. He told me that the hotel manager was gone, but would return soon. When I mentioned that we were interested in birds, he suggested that there were many birds at the Cabanas of the El Canindo Station four miles further up the road where the rooms were much better. The Station had an abundance of vacancies so reservations would not be needed. His son-in-law, Hector would be coming by in his camionetta (pickup) shortly and we could hitch a ride. Almost immediately, a black Toyota pickup appeared, we met Hector and he was more than happy to take us. He spoke fairly good, but broken English and explained that he had entered the USA three separate times, had never been caught by the Border Patrol, and had worked on oil rigs in Louisiana.
We loaded our gear in the back of the pickup, parked our car in the yard of a local who promised (for a 20-peso regallo) to guard it, and climbed into the front seat. The Toyota’s front seat was far too small for the three of us, so Pat suggested that she would rather walk the steep, rocky, four miles than ride so uncomfortable. So Pat got the good seat and I climbed in back of the Toyota with Marcello. We started up the rocky road, holding on to the side boards. Marcello and I engaged in a lively conversation and I found out that he lived at Ejido San Jose and that we were both the same age – which seemed to form a small bond between us. He lived only about one kilometer from the cabanas where we would stay. He had first come to the area as a logger and liked it so much that he has continued to live there for the last 40 years. He said that everyone in the Edjido is related, many were his offspring and that he would be happy to show us around. Sure enough, the road was very steep and very rocky, so the trip was made in low gear and it was necessary to hold on tight to keep from being banged around. About halfway to the top, Hector stopped, added some water to the radiator and retied the ropes that held his pickup battery under the hood.
Now we were up in the cloud forest. The lowland, dry bosque (forest) had given way to a semi-rain forest. The bromeliads with bright red stems grew in profusion on the oaks, magnolias, maples and other trees that we could not recognize. After we passed through a wooden gate, the long bunkhouse-like cabins with big front porches of El Caninde Station came into view. We met Javier Villegas Ruiz, the manager of the station, and he showed us the rooms which were all vacant. We had our choice for 100 pesos ($10) per person per night. Each unadorned room contained three single beds, and two rooms were joined by a hallway by the toilet. I inquired about eating arrangements and Javier replied that his sister, Teresa Villega would be happy to prepare food for us. We had brought some food but would need some supplementary meals.
We settled in one of the cabins and reviewed our rules of sanitation in Mexico: no fresh uncooked vegetables, no water from a tap, no bread touched by human hands, no drinks containing ice, etc. Then we set about to break most of our own rules. The local water comes from a pure, mountain spring in a large cave up on the mountainside and is very safe to drink – at least according to the missionaries.
When Hector insisted that we visit some of the homes of his relatives, a small alarm went off in my head. Maybe Hector had not picked us up as a couple of hitchhikers – maybe this was an unspoken business deal. So I approached him on the subject. “Oh yes,” he replied, “I charge 200 pesos per person for the ride up and the same for the ride down.” Quick calculations revealed that I was expected to pay about $80 US for the privilege of us riding up and down in the back of Hector’s pickup. “When will you wish to return down the mountain?” he asked.
“In about three days” I replied.
“You may pay me then,” he replied generously.
That evening, Teresa served a meal of eggs mixed with dried beef and tomatoes, a very large stack of hot, corn tortillas (to die for), a large bowl of mole and the usual refried beans. There is no electricity in the community except for that supplied to 12-volt batteries from a solar panel, which supplies the small, dim, 12 volt florescent bulbs that light our cabins at night. Consequently, there are no refrigerators, air conditioners, toasters or such. Any meat must be dried, canned or fresh. Hot coffee or chocolate were available, but no cold drinks. We worried about sanitation but ate anyway.
Javier was quick to show us the birds. Although mostly deaf, even I could hear the loud bird songs that came from several directions in the forest. “That is the canta (song) of the bandera bird,” Javier explained. It displays all the colors of the Mexican flag (bandera) – red, green and white. We stalked the forest to catch a glimpse of one in the thick, green forest canopy. Finally, we got a great view of a brown bird with a long tail and red on its sides. I opened the book of Mexican birds that my niece, Sally Ross, had so kindly loaned us, and found a bird that looked like the one we had seen in the tree. It was a female (hembra) Mountain Trogon. The next morning, Javier again took us out birding and we got a clear view of the male (macho), which was a particularly pretty red, white and green bandera bird. As we began to see other birds and to find them in Sally’s book, it became obvious that maybe the only bird that Javier really knew was the Bandera Bird and that we would likely be better off birding alone. He hinted that a small “propina” (gift) might be appropriate for his services. I gave him 100 pesos (about $10) for his services, although he tried to seem reluctant to take it.
The next day, Pat and I birded and explored locally. We passed a couple of kids on a mountain trail on their way to school and exchanged greetings. The boys were shy but very open to suggestion. When I asked if one would point his “resortera o hule” (slingshot/niggasoota) up into a tree as if shooting a bird, he did so without hesitation. The boys obviously enjoyed the instant digital photo that I showed of their pose.
We observed a group of birds attacking a small blob of a bird in a shrub near Ejido San Jose. Upon close inspection, the “blob” turned out to be a Northern Pygmy Owl. It appeared to have very large eyes for such a small bird – until it turned its head and revealed its true, small, beady eyes. Like many other owls, this bird is capable of swiveling its head around 180 degrees so that it can look in all directions without turning its body. Of course, the “large eyes” are really fake eyes, maybe evolved to keep attacking (mobbing) birds from sneaking a peck at the back of its head. The most persistent attackers appeared to be White-eared Hummingbirds (Chuparossa). Also attacking was a beautiful little Yellow-Throated Euphonia and a couple of Greater Peewee Flycatchers. We watched the little owl for about 45 minutes to see if some other birds might join the attack – with no luck. We were getting a little better at hearing and seeing the birds in the forest and added several more species that day.
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Yellow-throated Euphonia |
The next day we started a slow, birdwatching hike to La Gloria – another Ejido almost 3 miles further up into the mountains, where Javier had suggested the bird fauna was different. Javier called ahead on his cellular phone to inform the locals that we would like to have a chicken (pollo) dinner upon our arrival. (Can you imagine a more interesting, cultural contrasting scenario than a Mexican riding a skinny burro while talking on a cell phone?) The mosquitoes were fairly bad, but our repellent kept most from biting. Pat kept hearing a bird she thought might be some species of Thrush. It had a very pretty voice (according to Pat) and was very abundant. But try as we may, we could not see it. Pat was intent on finding the bird, so we searched the woods for quite a while. “Don’t worry,” I suggested, “we may see one by accident before the day is out because they are so abundant.” (I felt that we might be missing other good birds by spending too much time on this one.) But only minutes later, Pat heard its voice very close to the sendero (rough road) we were hiking. It was singing much higher in the trees than where we had been looking and fit the characters in Sally’s bird book exactly. The book suggested that this Brown-Backed Solitaire exhibits “a remarkable cascade of silibant yet musical notes.” We identified some other birds and as we passed over the cima (highest point) on the sendero, a large flock of noisy parrots flew, high overhead in large circles like vultures on a thermal updraft. We could see them only through the small openings in the tall cloud forest trees, so were unable to make a positive identification – not even a rough guess. We had been told that we might see the large, blue winged, Military Macaws there, so were especially alert.
We met a boy on the road who informed us that there was to be no pollo for our lunch in La Gloria today. Apparently, the entire population of maybe 20 folks in La Gloria knew we were coming. As we approached a wooden gate, we could see the large opening and homes of the picturesque La Gloria. The forest was now composed of mostly large, regrowth pine trees. We met Chotero Lopez Medina who took us to his daughter’s (Adelina Lopez Cruz’s) cocina (windowless kitchen). She cooked on a wood-burning, clay fireplace. While we waited outside I questioned Chotero about life in La Gloria. “Life is good as long as I have my pulque” he said. “Do you want some?” Curious, but reluctant, I agreed to a very small amount. He entered the cocina and poured a half glass of murky, white liquid from a pitcher. Pulque had an “interesting” taste, which remotely reminded me of warm beer with some sugar in it. To show my appreciation, I drank it all but declined more. Chotero filled another glass and drank it down with great gusto. Adelina served a very large meal of eggs cooked with onions, chiles, and tomatoes, and black beans and a huge pile of flour tortillas which she continued to cook as we ate them hot off the stove. It brought back memories of similar meals I had enjoyed as a child in South Texas. The smoky, small cocina with the dirt floor had a very homey and warm feel. Adelina refused payment for the meal, but I insisted. So she gave Pat an embroidered tortilla warmer as a gift. She claimed that she loves to cook. I replied that I love to eat so that we were a good match. At least, that’s what I think I said.
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Tortilla Warmer |
Of course, we ate too much of Adelina’s excellent cooking, so that on the way back down the mountain, a short siesta in the thick layer of forest leaves was deemed appropriate or even essential. There, where dangerous animals such as black bears, pumas, and leopards have been reported, I slept my power nap unworried and very soundly. That evening, we arrived back at the cabin tired but happy.
By the third night in the cabins, we began to question whether the beautiful days of birding were worth the long nights. Usually, we were tired at night, so went to bed by 8 or 9. From 8 PM to 6:30 AM, when the morning light began to creep over the mountain into our valley floor, meant that we were virtual prisoners in a cold, foam rubber bed for about 10 hours. After sleeping on the foam mattress a while, it formed-fitted an indentation the shape of our bodies, so that to roll over, it was necessary to roll up out of the hole to begin a new one with the other side of our bodies. As I looked up from the bed during the night, I could see stars through the cracks in the walls and the floor had large openings between the boards – little hindrance to a hungry mosquito. Although the nights were cold, the mosquitos still used my ear as a runway for making “touch and go” landings – buzzing as loud as possible during takeoff. Pulling the sheet over my head gave some relief, but the nights were very long and sleep was sporadic. Morning made everything OK again.
The last night, a young couple arrived in a large, 4-wheel pickup. They were very friendly and invited us over to their cabana for wine after dinner. Turns out he was an emergency room physician and she was a dentist, who lives in South Padre Island. They had no idea that they were in a Biosphere Preserve. He just happened to take the road and kept on driving till they found the Preserve Cabanas. My kind of people! Luckily, there were vacancies and she was very pleased that they did not have to sleep in their tent. We chatted easily as the darkness descended while enveloped in their incense mosquito repellent. He explained that they were very cautious about being bit by mosquitos because malaria is still present in the area. They had been married only a little over a year and she asked if we would recommend having children. “What can I say?” I replied. That led to a major bragging session about our offspring. We parted with promises to exchange email addresses in the morning. But in the morning, their door was still closed when we left about 9 AM, so I slipped a note containing my email address under their door.
We found Hector, paid him for the trip up the mountain, then hired a burro for 90 pesos to haul our luggage back down the mountain. We decided that it would be better to bird while hiking than while riding in the noisy pickup -- not to mention saving 310 pesos in the process. A light rain had fallen during the night, so the rocks were slippery and both donkey and people walked with considerable caution on the steep road. Teresa’s (our cook at the cabanas) handsome young son, Miguel Angel, led the burro and with our luggage banging on it side, and soon left us far behind as we birded slowly down the mountain. He had tied our new luggage with rope by the handles and I worried that the handles might break. Not to worry! When we met at the bottom, the luggage was in good shape except for a little burro sweat and a few burro hairs.
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Aplomado Falcon |
It was good to be back to our car. We drove back down the mountain to the plains below, where we observed many hawks following a large combine through the sorghum field. A handsome Aplomado Falcon landed on an electric line very close to our car. We watched as it plucked the legs and wings from a large grasshopper and consumed it. Pleased with our trip to El Cielo and Mexico, and a little sore from the hiking, we took a nap.