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| Cadder House |
June 10, 2023
On a recent trip to Scotland, my sons Jimmy and Brian, Brian’s wife Frances, and I homed in on Cadder, Scotland because it can be considered the original ancestral home of the Sterling tribe. Jimmy's wife Shenda and Granddaughter Kynwyn did not accompany us to Cadder. Apparently, every "Sterling" in the world can trace their ancestry back to one man — a fellow named Thoraldus Stirling (1). But, please understand that he was not born with the surname Stirling. He was given the title of Vicecomes de Stirling when he was made Sheriff of Stirlingshire, and the name “Stirling” apparently just stuck. From then on, all his offspring inherited this Stirling surname.
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| Cadder House with Jimmy, Win, and Brian |
So, it is important to know that there was a place in Scotland named Stirling, long before Thoraldus was sent there by King David I of England to tame those “wild” Highland Scottish folks — about 940 years ago. The town of Stirling and Stirling Castle derive their name from the word “Stirling” which means “Place of Strife” in the old Gaelic language. Since the time of Thoraldus, Stirlings spread out across the world, intermarried with many other tribes, and changed the spelling of their name to Sterling, Starling, Strivelyn, and 81 others (2).
Finding Cadder
Using smartphone maps, there was some confusion, but Jimmy, Brian, Frances and I finally found the historic, old, Cadder house — the multiple-century home of Stirling Family members and later of the Cadder Stirling Clan headquarters. The house and lands have now been named the Cawder Golf Club and the old house serves as golf headquarters. The names Cadder and Cawder are just different spellings of the name.
It is an imposing structure, and when we arrived, we were a little intimidated. After all, we were on the lands of a private golf club, in a strange land, and we had no idea of how we might be received.
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| Imaginary Laird |
This is when my imagination began to run wild. Maybe when I knock on this formidable door, a butler will appear and will request the reason for my visit. After I explain my purpose, he might say, “One moment while I check with the laird.” Then the laird (lord) would appear and might say “Well, I’m a little busy, can you come back next month?" — or something.
But, then I remembered that this was just a golf club, not a Laird’s lair. I summoned up a little courage and entered the imposing front entrance. No butler appeared and neither did anyone else. So, I continued boldly upstairs to a large room filled with tables and a bar on one end. Some senior ladies were having lunch.
I approached the bar to verify whether this building was indeed the real Cadder House. The young barman was unsure, so he whipped out his smartphone, did some searching, and replied that Cadder was located several miles away. He gave directions that made no sense to me. I replied that we would check it out.
I met with Jimmy, Brian, and Frances back in the parking lot and explained what I had found. Brian had also searched and found that the old Cadder House is definitely in the Cawder Golf Club. We were in the correct place.
By now, it was lunch-time, so we marched back upstairs to the restaurant and ordered lunch — as if we were the new Lairds of Cadder. While we waited to be served, I noticed a painting on the wall of a young lady that might be one of my ancestors.
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| Ancestor? |
One of the ladies eating lunch at a nearby table noticed that I was taking a photo of the girl’s portrait, and offered to take my photo with the portrait. “It would be very kind of you,” I said. Then she asked why I was interested in this portrait. I explained that “she might be one of my great, great, great, great, etc. grandmothers or something. And that since my name is Sterling, I am descended from old Thoraldus Stirling, who was the sheriff in these parts long ago, and once owned the lands of Cadder.
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| Golf Club Ladies |
By now, we had the attention of all the ladies having tea and scones — or whatever. They asked a few questions such as where I was from and the purpose of my visit. By then, our lunch had been served, so I excused myself and returned to our table.
As I was leaving, one of the ladies explained that the girl in the portrait was not a Stirling, just a chambermaid. Oh well! Of course, maybe she was just “putting me on.”
After lunch, we explored parts of the old house but felt somewhat like we were trespassing. Out in the parking lot again, I noticed a small “Office” sign over a door. Emboldened by recent successes, I opened the door and introduced myself to two fellows inside. After explaining my mission, both of these guys proved to be very friendly and helpful. “Feel free to explore any part of this old building or grounds,” the club master said.
“Please wait while I find something that might interest you,” he said. He left the office and soon returned with a book in his hand. He handed me a copy of a book titled: “The Cawder Story: The Story of Cawder Golf Club” by John Cubbage. “You may have it” he said.
'Wow! Many thanks” I replied.
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| Clubmaster |
Antonine Wall
Then, he showed me their prized, historic, Roman stone framed behind him on the wall — apparently found on the estate. It became obvious that on our Sterling ancestral home -- the Estate of Cadder -- stands remnants of the Antonine wall that was built in about 142 AD. The wall continued across the lowlands of Scotland and formed the frontier of the Roman Empire to exclude those dangerous "Scottish" Highlanders. The writing on the stone translates to: “The Second Legion Augustus Built This.”
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| Antonine Wall |
After we left the old Cadder Estate, I regretted that we did not actually see any evidence of the Antonine wall while we were there. The greenskeeper would likely have been happy to show us the Wall site if we had asked.
Dovecot
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| Dovecot Pigeon House |
Another old historic structure that remains on the Cadder Estate, is the old Pigeon House (Dovecot) that was built in 1753. According to the
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| Cawder Greenkeeper |
Forth and Clyde Canal
Back door to the Cadder Estate, is the Forth and Clyde Canal which connects the west coast of Scotland to the east — like a kind of Panama Canal. It was opened for use in 1790, is 35 miles long, and likely served the Sterlings of Cadder very well for shipping their grain and other produce to markets. It fell into disuse when ships became too large to use it anymore. It is now used primarily for recreation and roughly follows the course of the Antonine Wall.
Cawder Golf Club
The Cawder Golf Club was opened in 1933. And, as you might expect, there are certain formalities that must be observed while playing golf there. You may dress informally, but you must keep your shirt on. No exceptions! The same applies to your pants or dress. In summer, the fee for a round of golf is from 40 to 55 pounds, depending on whether it is midweek or weekend.
We visited this golf course for a particular reason. It’s land has a long history and was owned by the Stirling family for hundreds of years. The main building was named “Cadder House” until it was taken over to be renamed “Cawder Golf Club.”
Sad Story of Janet Stirling of Cadder
Janet somehow lost her parents in 1522, when she was only nine, and inherited the Cadder lands. Sir John Stirling, a distant relative from the lands of the Keir Stirlings, coveted the lands of Cadder. He somehow obtained Janet’s wardship and a crown grant on her marriage, so he had her married to his son James. After a turbulent eight years, Sir John had the marriage legally declared null and void. Janet then married a fellow named Thomas Bishop, a lawyer who just happened to have conveyed Janet’s lands and heritage to Sir John. Thomas later fled the country when Queen Mary declared him a “rebel and traitor.” Apparently, Thomas had been accused of “lying” with Janet before she was divorced from James. Sir John then owned both the Cadder and Keir lands and poor Janet lost all of her possessions.
Janet’s matrimonial achievements were poetically recorded as:
“First she was Lady Cawder,
Syne she was Lady Keir,
And syne she was Tom Bishop’s wife,
Who clippit with a shear.” Translation: sheared of her wealth.
Janet Stirling was the last of the old line of Stirlings of Cadder.
Many
other photos from this trip to Scotland were published in the Sterling
Family group on Facebook — primarily of adventures near the Duchray
Castle which we rented for several days and Stirling Castle which we
explored. While double-checking some of the claims in this story, I
found that there were also Stirlings that lived at the Duchray Castle.
Other Stirling Homes
When exploring our heritage in Scotland, we planned to visit some of the historic Stirling clan sites — such as Dumbarton Castle, Glorat House, Keir House, Drumpeillier House, Cadder House, and Stirling Castle. We only had six days to find out as much as possible about the Stirling Clan — while also doing the tourist stuff like exploring castles, and trails and learning about the history, ghosts, and such.
We ran out of time to visit the Keir and Drumpeillier Houses but found the Glorat House, Dumbarton Castle, and Cadder House and explored Stirling Castle.
Glorat House
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| Glorat House |
We drove in the winding driveway and beautiful gardens of Glorat House. We saw several pheasants and the handsome house but felt like we were invading private property. There were no posted signs of any kind and a single car was in the driveway. So we left.
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| Ring-necked Pheasant |
The manicured lawn and gardens were very impressive.
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| Drive and Gardens |
Dumbarton Castle (The Rock)
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| Dumbarton Castle |
Dumbarton Castle has been another home to many Stirlings, but it is now a museum open to all visitors — and well worth the entry price. The Castle was built on an ancient volcanic plug where the surrounding land has eroded over time, leaving this rock plug elevated and forming a perfect place for defending against enemies such as the Vikings. But, the Vikings laid siege and waited till the water well ran dry, so the locals surrendered and became Viking slaves.
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| Frances, Brian, and Jimmy on top of the Rock |
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| Win Resting on Steps of the Rock |
Keir and Drumpellier Houses
The Keir estate was acquired by the Stirling family in 1448, and a house was built on it in the 16th century. The Stirlings supported the Jacobites during the 18th-century rebellions, and the estate was forfeited. However, they continued to live at Keir, and built the present house in around 1760. Some Saudi prince bought it in recent years.
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| Drumpeller House |
One man's opinion is that the Sterling family “is, beyond dispute, the oldest in Glasgow; indeed, except the High Kirk, it is the oldest thing in Glasgow. They found this a little country town, and they have remained to see it grown by the help of them and of others like them, a hundredfold. Through near three centuries, through eight generations from father to son, they have been merchants here of good standing, and gentlemen. With such a pedigree, unequalled in, or perhaps out of Scotland, and with a hereditary character for straightforwardness and honour, the Stirlings of Glasgow can afford to be content.”(3)
AcknowledgementsCoat of Arms
Many other photos from this trip to Scotland were taken by several of our members and were published in the Sterling Family group on Facebook — primarily of adventures near the Duchray Castle that we rented for several days and Stirling Castle that we explored. While double-checking some of the claims in my story, I found that there were also Stirlings that lived at the Duchray Castle. The evidence can be found in the coat of arms on page 20 of the Sterling Genealogy vol. 1 (2). So, we might have slept in a Castle where some Stirling relative lived. This structure was built as a hunting lodge for the kings of Scotland.
Conclusion
Anyway, it was a wonderful adventure that was made possible by Shenda’s choice of the Duchray Castle as the home base. She and Frances cooked some scrumptious meals. Shenda and Brian were the primary chauffeurs and navigators through some very narrow, winding, country roads. Jimmy helped me navigate through customs and airline connections from College Station to Scotland and back. Kynwyn brought a smile. Thanks to all!
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| Cawder Story Book and Lunch Wraps |
I don’t remember ever meeting a grumpy Scotlander and the folks at the Cadder Golf Club were especially helpful.
Scotland is a beautiful country with an incredible history and friendly people. Love you, Scotland.
References:
(1) William Playfair. 1811. British Family Antiquity. Published in London.
(2) Albert Mack Sterling. 1904. The Sterling Genealogy. The Grafton Press, New York.
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| Kynwyn, Win, Jim, Brian, Frances, and Shenda |
