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Thursday, August 26, 2021

Heacock Family Whaling

Heacock Family Whaling
 
I recently watched the documentary "Into the Deep: American, Whaling and the World." I was very impressed. Especially when I remembered that my second great grandfather George Dodge worked on whaling ships for a couple of years. Watching this documentary gave me a sense of the deplorable conditions that my great grandfather likely experienced in finding, chasing, killing, cutting up, rendering the whale oil, surviving storms, cold, thirst, hunger, and sometimes tyrannical bosses.
 
Karen Donsbach posted this brief history of Capt. George Dodge a few years ago, and I repost it here to refresh our memories: Following this history is a review of the documentary for your information. I have given thought to visiting the Whaling Museum on Nantucket Island (the one-time whaling capital of the world) for additional family information -- but, at my age, it seems unlikely.
 
Several of our ancestors settled in coastal Massachusetts, there may have been other family members that also worked on whaleboats.
Enjoy!
 
--------------------------------
 
Capt. George Dodge
 
Capt. George Dodge, a prominent citizen of Port Byron, was born in Guildhall, Essex Co., Vt., Oct. 13, 1814. His father, John Dodge, was a native of Salem, Essex Co., Mass., a direct descendant of a family of that name who can from England about 1670 and settled in Salem. He was a hatter by trade, and George learned the same from him, and worked at it until 1839, when he went to New York City for a short time, and then to Port Lee, N. J. After teaching school there one year, he went to sea as a “sailor before the mast” on a whaler, and within the ensuing two years he made two voyages. Returning to New York, he enlisted in the first United States Dragoons and served five years in the West, during which time he visited the section of the country now included in Colorado, New Mexico, Utah and Wyoming.
 
After his discharge in 1846, he came to Port Byron, and two months afterward he went to the Galena lead mines for a year. Returning to Port Byron, he engaged as a clerk for Holmes & Moore two years, and then in trade on his own account until 1858. In 1861 he raised a company of volunteers, which was attached to the Forth Ill. Vol. Cav., and was mustered into the service of the Government in September, 1861, Mr. Dodge as Captain. After a service in the army one year, he resigned, on account of ill health, and returned to Port Byron. Subsequently, from 1870 to 1875, he was in the Government service as Guager, being stationed in different places in this State.
 
Jan. 17, 1850 is the date of Capt. Dodge’s marriage to Miss Ellen, Daughter of George E. and Mary (Moore) Holmes, and their two children are, Clara, now the wife of J C. Fleming, and living in Port Byron; and Mary, the wife of J. S. Knowles, and residing in Kingsley, Iowa. Capt. Dodge and his wife are members of the Congressional Church.
 
--------------------------------------------
 
Great Documentary
Michael Elliott 22 March 2012
 
The American Experience: Into the Deep: American, Whaling & the World (2010.)
 
This is a rather ambitious documentary that actual covers three events connected by one tie. The first even is how back in the day whaling helped form America because it became one of the first major ways to get income moving. The second story deals with the tragic events surrounding the whaling ship The Essex, which was struck by what seemed like a vengeful whale. The ship would end up sinking and then men aboard would features some of the greatest horrors. Lastly, these events would help Herman Melville write 'Moby Dick' which would end his writing career but later bring him fame. I had never really paid any attention to any of the three subjects here and in fact I had never even heard of The Essex and its story so that's why I wanted to check this documentary out and in the end it goes through so much detail that you really come away as if you know everything on the matter. The film contains some awfully dramatic moments no matter which story they're covering. It's fascinating hearing the various ways that whaling helped changed this country back in the day and what issues it would face as wars would break out. For The Essex, it was fascinating hearing about the whale attack and the aftermath, which has the survivors doing unimaginable things to try and stay alive. The fatal mistake they make refusing to go to one island because they thought cannibals were there and then it would turn out that they would turn into cannibals themselves. Director Ric Burns does a wonderful job at mixing these three stories and telling us their history but I think the stuff will Melville wasn't needed. I say that because it's clearly the least noticed of the three stories and in fact there's not too much told about it other than the book was a flop only to be discovered sixty years later. I think it could have been mentioned as being influenced by The Essex but its whole story left for another documentary. Either way, this is clearly a wonderful documentary but people should be warned that there's some graphic violence from older footage showing whales being slaughtered.
 
Bruce and Big Bend State Park


October 10, 2022



Brother Bruce Sterling planned a family adventure trip to the recently established Big Bend Ranch State Park in 1997.  Brother Scott had driven from Georgia and several other family members were ready to go the next day or so.  Our planned entourage consisted of Bruce and Arleen Sterling,  Dorothy and Gene Cavanaugh, Peggy and Sonny Miller, Fanny and Buddy Ross, Winfield and Pat Sterling, Scott and Joan Sterling, Ruth Sterling, and John and Linda Sterling.  (Corrections appreciated). Then disaster!  Bruce had been sick for several months before this planned trip, but he was still enthusiastic.  He was hurt himself when he fell out of a tree.  He lost a lot of weight and told brother John, "I should have got more help," when he realized that he had not taken the injury seriously.  But this injury was not his primary health problem.  A day or so before the planned trip to West Texas, we learned that Bruce could no longer remember how to use his computer, started making irrational comments and could no longer carry out intelligible conversation.  Bruce was later diagnosed with terminal pancreatic cancer.  The trip to the Big Bend was cancelled and Bruce died a few months later.

I assumed that someone else in the family might re-organize the trip and we might do it in Bruce’s memory at some later date.  But, it never happened. 

However, on one of our trips in Mexico, Pat and I had crossed the border from Mexico into the United States at Presidio,Texas, then drove the river road through the Big Bend State Park, and got our first view.  But we could not stop at the various campgrounds and special sites because we had not purchased a Park pass — so stopping in the park was illegal.  Anyway, we were tired and a little anxious to get home after spending several weeks in Mexico, so we spent little time in the park.  Again, in 2014 we traveled rapidly over the River Road on our way into Mexico to visit Peguis Canyon on the Conchos River, stopping rarely.  On both trips, we were amazed with this wonderful road and all it’s scenic beauty as it follows the Rio Grande River and canyons east from Presidio into the town of Lajitas and then into Big Bend National Park.  It was enough to give us a taste and triggered a desire to return again someday and explore in greater detail.

Bruce died in July, 1997 so it has been 25 years ago that our planned trip was cancelled.  Recently, I thought maybe it was time to plan another trip to this Big Bend Country — partially in memory of Brother Bruce and to spark our memories.  So, Pat and I and our dog, Tiger made the trip last week (October 1 thru October 7).  We thought of how nice it would be organize another family group to go with us, but the weather forcast indicated that the park would experience mild temperatures for the next week -- so, as we often do -- we cranked up our motor-home, rounded up our little dog, and took off -- with little notice.

Big Bend State Park


This is the largest State Park in Texas -- all 311,000 acres of it.  Located in the Chihuahua Desert, it is a hot, dry but beautiful place.  The Rio Grande River forms the southern boundary of the park and runs through the Colorado Canyon.  The scenic, paved Texas Highway 170 also follows the course of the river, providing access to several boondock (no electricity or water) camping sites, scenic views, trail-heads, a rest stop, canoe and raft put-in sites, and gravel road connections into the interior of the park.  National Geographic once claimed that it is one of the 10 most scenic drives in the United States.  I remember that Uncle Steven Heacock, who worked for the Texas Highway Department, recommended it very highly about 40 years ago or so.

Colorado Canyon

Our trip took 6 days and only 1.5 days were actually spent in the park.  We drove at a leisurely pace through most of the trip out and back from Bryan, TX.  After a night in the Lost Alaska RV Park in Alpine, we drove the very scenic 95 mile route on Highway 118 through lush grasslands to Lajitas, Texas.  The Lajitas Golf Resort is a posh establishment which Bruce would likely have chosen for our first night before starting to explore the Big Bend State Park.  We stayed at the Maverick RV Park which is a part of the Resort.

Lajitas Golf Resort

Golf Resort  

After breakfast of eggs, green salsa, and guacamole, we started our explorations along the river road.



Candililla Restaurant at the Golf Resort  

 As we started up the River Road leaving Lajitas, a pulloff allowed us to see the muddy Rio Grande River and a distant view of Lajitas.  Recent rains caused this river to run much higher than we are accustomed to seeing it.  Good news for farmers and towns below Amistad Dam.

Rio Grande River and Lajitas

River View at Grassy Banks Campground 

This sign explains that a couple movies have been made in this area, including "Streets of Laredo" which was filmed in 1995 and "Fandango" in 1985.


Movies  and Pictographs

 One of the most interesting sites on this trip is the area around this hill.  The Spanish name is Cuesta (steep hill).


 
Rest stop with tepees

Cuesta and 15% Grade Downhill

Pat searching for Bighorn Sheep that have been reintroduced into the Park.  We observed three of them high on the cliff.

Hoodos against the blue sky

Hoodos Trailhead

Closed Canyon.  Tiger (our dog) and I hiked this shady canyon where he had a refreshing drink from a pool of water.

This washboard, gravel road leads into the Ranger Station in the center of the old Ranch that became the State Park.  We considered the possibility of driving our motorhome the 27 miles to this station, but after driving about 1/2 mile of this rough road, we regained our senses and retreated.  A 4-wheel auto is recommended for the unpaved roads of this old ranch.

Fort Leaton 

No tour of this river road would be complete without a stop at Fort Leaton.  It was first built in 1848 and served as a trading post until it was abandoned about 1925.  It now serves as a museum and State Park office where a pass into the park can be purchased.

Presidio

Neither Presidio or Lajitas are officially part of Big Bend Ranch State Park, but they constitute the private beginning and end of the River Road.  Presidio is considered one of the oldest towns in the United States as it was first established in 1582 by Antonio de Espego -- when he headed the first wagon train across the river.  Here, at the confluence of the Rio Grande and Concho Rivers, Presidio was born.  It is claimed that there has been a settlement here for the last 10,000 years.  The Comanche Indian Trail passed through this area to raid Mexican towns.

Comanche War Trails

 

Comanche Warriors

Also, several roads through Texas passed through this area to supply silver mines in Chihuahua, Mexico and to haul the silver back into Texas.  The Spanish mine owners also raided into Texas to capture local Indians to use as slaves in their mines.

Maybe, much of the history of this Big Bend area can be summarized by this mural by Tom Lea that can be found in the El Paso, County Courthouse.

Previous Trip to Big Bend


The trip to the Big Bend area was not the first one that Bruce planned.  Several of us rafted through the Santa Elena Canyon when the river was very low in 1994.  Left to right: Bruce, Arleen, Pat, Oarsman?, Gene, Scott, ?, Dorothy, Sonny, Peggy and ?.

Rafting the Rio Grande in Santa Elena Canyon

Dorothy Waving and Bruce in Front

Summary

I am so sorry that we never experienced this park as we would have if Bruce's family reunion had materialized.  I realize that my chronicle is a poor substitute for the memories we would have shared if our reunion had it not failed.  But, I hope the memories shared here are worth remembering.

Table of Contents: https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/6813612681836200616/3382423676443906063?hl=en


 




 

Tuesday, August 24, 2021

Born 1930 to 1946 Facts

Best of Times

Author unknown 

 Special Group / Born Between 1930 - 1946. 

Today, they range in ages from 75 to 90.  Are you or do you know someone “still here”? 

Interesting Facts for you. 

You are the smallest group of children, born since the early 1900s. 

You are the last generation, climbing out of the depression, who can remember the winds of war and the impact of a world at war which rattled the structure of our daily lives for years. 

You are the last to remember ration books for everything from gas to sugar to shoes to stoves. 

You saved tin foil and poured fat into tin cans. 

You saw cars up on blocks because tires weren't available. 

You can remember milk being delivered to your house early in the morning and placed in the "milk box" on the porch. [Mine was retrieved from our cow, by me, twice daily.] 

You are the last to see the gold stars in the front windows of grieving neighbors whose sons died in the War. 

You saw the 'boys' come home from the war, build their little houses. 

You are the last generation who spent childhood without television; instead, you imagined what you heard on the radio. 

With no TV until the 50's, you spent your childhood "playing outside". 

Many of us spent a lot of time working outside in the corn fields and more. 

There was no little league. 

There was no city playground for kids. 

Many of us did not live in cities anyway. 

The lack of television in your early years meant that you had little real understanding of what the world was like. 

On Saturday afternoons, the movies gave you newsreels sandwiched in between westerns and cartoons. 

Many of us were too poor to go to movies and they were not a part of our lives. 

Telephones were one to a house, if you had one at all, often shared (party lines) and hung on the wall in the kitchen (no cares about privacy). 

Computers were called calculators; they were hand cranked. 

Typewriters were driven by pounding fingers, throwing the carriage and changing the ribbon. 

INTERNET' and 'GOOGLE' were words that did not exist. [Except for Barney Google. 

Newspapers and magazines were written for adults and the news was broadcast on your radio in the evening. 

As you grew up, the country was exploding with growth. 

The Government gave returning Veterans the means to get an education and spurred colleges to grow. 

Loans fanned a housing boom. 

Pent up demand coupled with new installment payment plans opened many factories for work. 

New highways would bring jobs and mobility. 

The Veterans joined civic clubs and became active in politics. 

The radio network expanded from 3 stations to thousands.

Your parents were suddenly free from the confines of the depression and the war, and they threw themselves into exploring opportunities they had never imagined. 

You weren't neglected, but you weren't today's all-consuming family focus. 

They were glad you played by yourselves until the street lights came on. 

They were busy discovering the post war world. 

More of us grew up in deeply rural areas, and we had no street lights, and we had no electricity. 

You entered a world of overflowing plenty and opportunity; a world where you were welcomed, enjoyed yourselves and felt secure in your future though depression poverty was deeply remembered. 

Polio was still a crippler. 

You came of age in the 50s and 60s. 

You are the last generation to experience an interlude when there were no threats to our homeland. 

The second world war was over and the cold war, terrorism, global warming, and perpetual economic insecurity had yet to haunt life with unease. 

Yet, the 50s and first half of the 60s were a highly conformist era. 

Only your generation can remember both a time of great war, and a time when our world was secure and full of bright promise and plenty. 

You grew up at the best possible time, a time when the world was getting better... 

You are "The Last Ones." and "lived in the best of times!"

 

Table of Contents:  https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/6813612681836200616/3382423676443906063?hl=en  

Friday, August 13, 2021

Castle Buttes Serendipity

 

Driving through the wide open spaces of Western North and South Dakota, we were amazed at the fields of corn, soybeans and pastures that seemed to go on forever across the rolling hills. Yes, there were country homes interspersed across the landscape, but we were amazed that there were so few, and not many cars on the road. The speed limit was mostly about 65 mph, but I feel more comfortable driving about 55 or 60 mph. On these lonely country highways, country folks must drive a long distance for groceries or whatever, so they tend to drive faster than the speed limit -- which is just fine with me. So if they come up behind us in a no passing zone, I tend to speed up so as not to hold them up.  I'm OK driving 75 or 80 mph on the Interstates, but when driving our motorhome, those speeds are a little over my comfort zone -- especially if the route takes us over hills, curves or heavy traffic.

So, we were cruising along, heading south from North Dakota, when some buttes appear on the horizon to our west. Not having anything better to do, we headed their way.  So glad we did.

Evening Color on Butte

Our highway climbed up to a pass through the Buttes, and there (as if by magic) was the US Forest Service, Reva Gap Campground.  The campground road was not exceptionally well maintained so it was necessary to drive our motorhome slowly over several large, washout- type holes, but the view became better and better as we passed campsites.  There were no hookups in this park so it was necessary for us to decide if we were willing to boondock (camp without water or electric hookups.)  The temperature was maybe F 90, but we found a spot at the end of the drive in the shade of some pine trees.  But the clincher was the view and a breeze.  Hiking to the top of a hill, I found a magnificent view of several individual buttes.

Steamboat Butte   


Since our main goal when traveling is to find some serendipitous (happy chance discoveries) adventure or interesting places, this remote campground was perfect.  We have found over the years that making RV park reservations regiments us excessively, so we seldom make them.  We love the freedom to change directions on a whim.  

We can boondock because we have solar panels that keep our house batteries charged to ensure that our refrigerator will keep it's cool and we have a propane generator that can be run if we need air conditioning, heat or to recharge our batteries.  Consequently, boondocking is always an option.

We unfolded our camp chairs, sat in the shade of pine trees and enjoyed the peace and the cooling breeze.

 

Pat in the Shade

Trail to Overview   

Castles Registered Natural Landmark

Since Pat had a stroke a few years ago, our hiking is very limited, but I was still able to hike up this hill to find this landmark sign and see the spectacular Castles overview.  

A couple of cars drove by and stopped so the occupants could climb up to the overview.  We chatted with one couple and found that we guys were both in the Marines.  He claimed that we occupied the best campsite in the campground.  We did not disagree.

Three guys from a neighboring campsite hiked by and stopped to explain that one was a geologist from a local college and was showing his two students these castles that were formed by volcanic ash a few million years ago or so.



We also found this sign that explained that the castles and campground are located within and area named the "Slim Buttes." 

One of the welcome features of this place is that it is not a top tourist spot so there are no swarms of tourists.  Although it may not have the spectacular vistas of a Grand Canyon or Yellowstone Parks, it seemed to satisfy some longing in our "souls" for such places.

When Pat and I look back on our recent 2-month trip, we conclude that this was our favorite place.

 

View from Overview

 

Sunday, August 1, 2021

Bruce and Big Bend State Park

​Bruce and Big Bend State Park


October 10, 2022



Brother Bruce Sterling planned a family adventure trip to the recently established Big Bend Ranch State Park in 1997.  Brother Scott had driven from Georgia and several other family members were ready to go the next day or so.  Our planned entourage consisted of Bruce and Arleen Sterling,  Dorothy and Gene Cavanaugh, Peggy and Sonny Miller, Fanny and Buddy Ross, Winfield and Pat Sterling, Scott and Joan Sterling, Ruth Sterling, and John and Linda Sterling.  (Corrections appreciated). Then disaster!  Bruce had been sick for several months before this planned trip, but he was still enthusiastic.  He was hurt himself when he fell out of a tree.  He lost a lot of weight and told brother John, "I should have got more help," when he realized that he had not taken the injury seriously.  But this injury was not his primary health problem.  A day or so before the planned trip to West Texas, we learned that Bruce could no longer remember how to use his computer, started making irrational comments and could no longer carry out intelligible conversation.  Bruce was later diagnosed with terminal pancreatic cancer.  The trip to the Big Bend was cancelled and Bruce died a few months later.

I assumed that someone else in the family might re-organize the trip and we might do it in Bruce’s memory at some later date.  But, it never happened. 

However, on one of our trips in Mexico, Pat and I had crossed the border from Mexico into the United States at Presidio,Texas, then drove the river road through the Big Bend State Park, and got our first view.  But we could not stop at the various campgrounds and special sites because we had not purchased a Park pass — so stopping in the park was illegal.  Anyway, we were tired and a little anxious to get home after spending several weeks in Mexico, so we spent little time in the park.  Again, in 2014 we traveled rapidly over the River Road on our way into Mexico to visit Peguis Canyon on the Conchos River, stopping rarely.  On both trips, we were amazed with this wonderful road and all it’s scenic beauty as it follows the Rio Grande River and canyons east from Presidio into the town of Lajitas and then into Big Bend National Park.  It was enough to give us a taste and triggered a desire to return again someday and explore in greater detail.

Bruce died in July, 1997 so it has been 25 years ago that our planned trip was cancelled.  Recently, I thought maybe it was time to plan another trip to this Big Bend Country — partially in memory of Brother Bruce and to spark our memories.  So, Pat and I and our dog, Tiger made the trip last week (October 1 thru October 7).  We thought of how nice it would be organize another family group to go with us, but the weather forcast indicated that the park would experience mild temperatures for the next week -- so, as we often do -- we cranked up our motor-home, rounded up our little dog, and took off -- with little notice.

Big Bend State Park


This is the largest State Park in Texas -- all 311,000 acres of it.  Located in the Chihuahua Desert, it is a hot, dry but beautiful place.  The Rio Grande River forms the southern boundary of the park and runs through the Colorado Canyon.  The scenic, paved Texas Highway 170 also follows the course of the river, providing access to several boondock (no electricity or water) camping sites, scenic views, trail-heads, a rest stop, canoe and raft put-in sites, and gravel road connections into the interior of the park.  National Geographic once claimed that it is one of the 10 most scenic drives in the United States.  I remember that Uncle Steven Heacock, who worked for the Texas Highway Department, recommended it very highly about 40 years ago or so.

Colorado Canyon

Our trip took 6 days and only 1.5 days were actually spent in the park.  We drove at a leisurely pace through most of the trip out and back from Bryan, TX.  After a night in the Lost Alaska RV Park in Alpine, we drove the very scenic 95 mile route on Highway 118 through lush grasslands to Lajitas, Texas.  The Lajitas Golf Resort is a posh establishment which Bruce would likely have chosen for our first night before starting to explore the Big Bend State Park.  We stayed at the Maverick RV Park which is a part of the Resort.

Lajitas Golf Resort

Golf Resort  

After breakfast of eggs, green salsa, and guacamole, we started our explorations along the river road.



Candililla Restaurant at the Golf Resort  

 As we started up the River Road leaving Lajitas, a pulloff allowed us to see the muddy Rio Grande River and a distant view of Lajitas.  Recent rains caused this river to run much higher than we are accustomed to seeing it.  Good news for farmers and towns below Amistad Dam.

Rio Grande River and Lajitas

River View at Grassy Banks Campground 

This sign explains that a couple movies have been made in this area, including "Streets of Laredo" which was filmed in 1995 and "Fandango" in 1985.


Movies  and Pictographs

 One of the most interesting sites on this trip is the area around this hill.  The Spanish name is Cuesta (steep hill).


 
Rest stop with tepees

Cuesta and 15% Grade Downhill

Pat searching for Bighorn Sheep that have been reintroduced into the Park.  We observed three of them high on the cliff.

Hoodos against the blue sky

Hoodos Trailhead

Closed Canyon.  Tiger (our dog) and I hiked this shady canyon where he had a refreshing drink from a pool of water.

This washboard, gravel road leads into the Ranger Station in the center of the old Ranch that became the State Park.  We considered the possibility of driving our motorhome the 27 miles to this station, but after driving about 1/2 mile of this rough road, we regained our senses and retreated.  A 4-wheel auto is recommended for the unpaved roads of this old ranch.

Fort Leaton 

No tour of this river road would be complete without a stop at Fort Leaton.  It was first built in 1848 and served as a trading post until it was abandoned about 1925.  It now serves as a museum and State Park office where a pass into the park can be purchased.

Presidio

Neither Presidio or Lajitas are officially part of Big Bend Ranch State Park, but they constitute the private beginning and end of the River Road.  Presidio is considered one of the oldest towns in the United States as it was first established in 1582 by Antonio de Espego -- when he headed the first wagon train across the river.  Here, at the confluence of the Rio Grande and Concho Rivers, Presidio was born.  It is claimed that there has been a settlement here for the last 10,000 years.  The Comanche Indian Trail passed through this area to raid Mexican towns.

Comanche War Trails

 

Comanche Warriors

Also, several roads through Texas passed through this area to supply silver mines in Chihuahua, Mexico and to haul the silver back into Texas.  The Spanish mine owners also raided into Texas to capture local Indians to use as slaves in their mines.

Maybe, much of the history of this Big Bend area can be summarized by this mural by Tom Lea that can be found in the El Paso, County Courthouse.

Previous Trip to Big Bend


The trip to the Big Bend area was not the first one that Bruce planned.  Several of us rafted through the Santa Elena Canyon when the river was very low in 1994.  Left to right: Bruce, Arleen, Pat, Oarsman?, Gene, Scott, ?, Dorothy, Sonny, Peggy and ?.

Rafting the Rio Grande in Santa Elena Canyon

Dorothy Waving and Bruce in Front

Summary

I am so sorry that we never experienced this park as we would have if Bruce's family reunion had materialized.  I realize that my chronicle is a poor substitute for the memories we would have shared if our reunion had it not failed.  But, I hope the memories shared here are worth remembering.

Table of Contents: https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/6813612681836200616/3382423676443906063?hl=en