Proselytizing Latter Day Saints
October 29, 1997
Yes, I was skeptical. Could we really have fun visiting one of the holy lands of the Mormon Church? Could I possible feel comfortable chatting with folks who take their religion so seriously that they give up 18 months of their lives as missionaries? What will I do when they try to convert me? My previous experience with Mormons has been that they show up on your doorstep to sell an idea of golden plates delivered by an angel, that frankly seem a little far-fetched. Always well-dressed and with good manners, they struck me as well-intentioned folks, but I was not buying. But now - for some odd reason - I find the history of the Mormon’s “Trail of Tears” trip to Utah so interesting that I am willing to risk being subjected to a little proselytizing in order to absorb some of this history.
We had decided to spend a day at Nauvoo, IL, the one-time home of the Mormon Church, soaking up the atmosphere and history. We were late leaving for Nauvoo from Keokuk, IA, partly because the snow had not yet melted on the highway. Then of course, we can never seem to go directly from point A to point B because there are always new ducks to identify, a park to explore, some other call of nature, or an interesting fork in the road. Arriving after lunch, we were soon overwhelmed by how many interesting things there were to do in Nauvoo. About all, we accomplished that afternoon was to tour the visitor center of the RLDA (Reorganized Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints), watch one of their movies, take a tour of the Joseph Smith family cemetery, and visit the renovated Red Brick Store. Behind the store, in an adjacent wildlife refuge, large numbers of Canada geese dug with their feet in the muddy water, plunged their heads into the water, and sometimes came up with a large, white, piece of plant root or tuber. Upon seeing the tuber, other geese would crowd in for a share, only to see it disappear down the long goose throat.
Now it was mid-afternoon and there was a long ride back to Keokuk. Finding a very nice state park with RV sites and electrical hookups in Nauvoo, we decided to move Serendipity (our motorhome) across the river to Nauvoo so that we could explore for a day or so at our leisure, avoiding the long drive back to Iowa every day.
Without sounding like a tourist brochure promoting the Mormon Church, a bit of background on Nauvoo might be in order. After an angel presented Joseph Smith with the golden tablets written in hieroglyphics, he translated them into English, then the plates were somehow misplaced so that their authenticity cannot be verified. He then moved from New York to Missouri with some of his followers. He was promptly ordered by the governor of Missouri to leave. (Apparently inventing new religions is not the best way to make friends when everybody else enjoys the comforts of their own brand of religion). Looking for a place to settle, he chose a site on the Illinois bank of the Mississippi, where the river makes a large bend. He named it Nauvoo, which in Hebrew means “beautiful place.” The name may have been chosen so as to help convince converts to move there because at the time it was not a very pretty place - it was mostly a swamp. Many of the early settlers to Nauvoo died of malaria and various other diseases. But Joseph Smith was a very effective recruiter of talent. If he were alive now, he might be a football coach. But back then football was not yet a very popular religion. Inventing a new religion was a more certain way to fame and fortune. He specialized in recruiting and converting blacksmiths, carpenters, brick makers, builders, etc. who then helped build his new city on the swamp. There was little money, except that, brought in by converts, for building the city. But with the manpower and finances that had been recruited, they drained the swamp and laid out a city. Within about 6 years the city had grown to about 12,000 people or about equal to the size of Chicago at that time. Joseph Smith anointed himself general of the militia, judge, mayor, and was in total control of the citizens. Some non-Mormons in the area fell under the jurisdiction of Judge Joseph Smith but did not take kindly to being tried in a Mormon court. Voting as a block, Mormons began to have considerable clout in state politics. In an exhibition of excessive testosterone, some decided that one wife was not enough, so they introduced polygamy. For these and other reasons, pressure began to grow in the non-Mormon community to rid the state of these “saints.” A mob eventually killed Joseph Smith and orders were given for his followers to leave. The Mormons commanded a militia, but church leaders decided not to retaliate. Modern Mormons take pride in this show of restraint, proving that they are a peace-loving religion.
They had somehow come up with labor and funding to build a million dollar, large, impressive temple on a hill overlooking the town and river. They had made much progress when they were asked to leave town. Even after they knew they were leaving Nauvoo, they continued to build and actually completed the temple. Then Gentiles (non-Mormons) torched the temple and many Mormon farms. A tornado later leveled the remaining walls of the temple. Homes either could not be sold or were sold for a fraction of their worth before the Mormons left. They crossed the Mississippi River in the winter of 1845-46, made temporary camp in Iowa, traveled across Iowa in 1847, and finally reached Utah in 1848.
In recent years the Mormons have come back to Nauvoo, restored many of the old buildings, built visitor centers, and now entertain visitors. There is no entry fee for touring this city. Entering any of these buildings, you are greeted by a Mormon host who explains and demonstrates some craft. For example, there is a brick shop where you are shown how bricks were made back in the 1840's. At the blacksmith shop, you learn about heating, beating and bending iron to make all the stuff needed in a frontier society. Another building houses pottery, wooden barrel, and candle-making demonstrations. The home of Browning (inventor of Browning Rifles) has been renovated and a demo is provided of how to make a rifle. A post office, bakery, and many old homes can be visited. We found the demonstrations to generally be of very good quality, interesting, and informative. Demonstrations are given by members of the LDS who are in the process of serving their 18-month missionary service to the church. A badge identifies them as Sister or Elder “Jones” or whoever. Very few young folks serve this way. Most are older, retired, folks like Pat and me. They have memorized their spiel and generally present it with enthusiasm and some skill. In late-October when we visited, there were very few other visitors present. Therefore, we were free to change the subject or engage in conversation. Most of these Mormons seemed a little bored of having nothing to do, so our visit seemed to provide a break from the monotony. In the summer when many visitors come through, they may be required to run a group through each demonstration in about 10 minutes. But we sometimes chatted for 30 or 45 minutes. They would invariably ask where we were from and what we are doing in Illinois. We would ask about what it is like to live in modern Nauvoo, where they had come from, and questions about their demonstration. I began to feel a fairly strong kinship with these folks who were obviously educated, interesting people who had lived productive lives. They came from California, Washington, Utah, Idaho and many other states.
The only time I felt any degree of discomfort was at the end of their demonstration when some of them would present a Bible verse. I became fairly proficient at predicting when the verse was coming. Their eyes would narrow and sort of lose focus, the expression on their faces would change, the smile would disappear, and questions would not be taken until the verse was complete. I thought “This is the price we must pay for this show - grin and bear it.” Also, after the tour of the visitor center, we were asked if we wished to know more about the Mormon religion. Although I have plenty of questions about the religion, I was fearful of being subjected to an extended indoctrination, so declined with a simple, but hopefully courteous, “No.”
As we visited the various demonstrations during the day, our hosts would often encourage us to attend the “play” in the evening. Tickets were available at the visitor center for free. The show contained elements of the history of the Mormons done in verse and song. Our hosts at the demonstrations during the day served as actors and actresses at night. The lack of talent demonstrated by the group was sometimes compensated for by their enthusiasm. But, generally even the enthusiasm was lacking and the show became hokey and dull. After another verse of “beautiful, beautiful, Nauvoo,” I felt trapped and wished to escape after about the first ten minutes. Pat was having more fun than I was. However, the next day, as we were given a demonstration at the bakery, and were again informed of another show tonight. We now had a good excuse - we had seen the show the previous night. “But tonight there will be a complete change of actors,” came the reply. (Were they really suggesting that I should subject myself to such “entertainment” again?) One of the sisters asked how we liked the show. Not wanting to blatantly perjure myself, I changed the subject and informed her that it was common knowledge among the visitors that the performers tonight are far superior in talent to those of the previous night. The lady broke into almost uncontrollable laughter. When she finally regained control, she explained, “I am in charge of this show. Please do not tell anyone else what you told me.”
Behind the bakery, we boarded a trailer pulled by two beautiful, Clydesdale horses to be given an overview tour of the entire Mormon area. Wanting to photograph the scene including the horses, fall colors, and the renovated Mormon buildings, I hopped off the trailer and got my shot. About then, the sister who had been so entertained earlier appeared and asked me to repeat to the group taking the tour what I had told her in private - so I did. Then she said to the driver in jest (I hope) “Get him out of here. We have had enough of him.”
The driver said, “Maybe I won’t let him back on the trailer.” Later, we were told that the show for tonight had been canceled.
All things considered, a visit to Nauvoo is one I can highly recommend. The state park across the road from the Mormon area also contains a museum, an apple orchard, a vineyard, and large open grassy areas. We were a little reluctant to leave Nauvoo, but a weather forecast of rain and snow for the next couple of days, forced us on down the Great River Road - heading south.
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