Canada and the Eye of Quebec

Eye of Quebec

August 27, 2009

Space View of the Eye of Quebec

 

 

A giant fireball streaked across the Canadian sky and crashed into the Quebec countryside with a tremendous explosive force.  Today – about 214 million years later – the crater caused by this 3-mile wide asteroid is so distinctive that it can be recognized by astronauts in space.  Natives of Quebec sometimes refer to it as “the eye of Quebec.”  It forms a nearly perfect circle of water about 60 miles wide and holds the largest freshwater island in the world.  The impact of this asteroid splashed out rocks of the boreal shield which caused the formation of mountains for many miles around the edge of the crater.  The only road that goes to Western Labrador is located along this crater.  It is very rugged travel uphill in second gear then downhill in second gear for over 60 miles.  Of course, when traveling such roads it always rains -- right?  A strong norther is blowing and the late-October temperature falls to F 39.  In the semi-darkness of morning and rain, photos we take are blurred and hilltop views of the lake are murky.  But, in spite of all the negative stuff, it’s a remote and beautiful place.

After several hours of dodging 18-wheel trucks driven by race car drivers, we arrived at the southern end of the lake.  The sun broke through the clouds and for the first time we got a good view of the blue waters that fills the crater.  Somebody named it Manicouagan – maybe because it is in the Manicouagan area of Quebec.  The Manicouagan river – which runs through the crater – is dammed off to create the large Manicouagan Reservoir within the crater.  Local folks must tire of pronouncing this long name so they have abbreviated it to “Manic.”  As the river travels south before it empties into the St Laurence Seaway, there are 4 reservoirs named Manic 1, Manic 2, Manic 3 and Manic 4.  Each of these reservoirs is backed up by a dam where hydroelectric power is generated.

This road to Labrador is called the Freedom Highway by locals in Labrador because when it opened in 1992, it finally gave the Labradorians the freedom to drive out and south to warmer climes with something other than a snowmobile or dog sled.  The road starts at the handsome, prosperous town of Baie-Comeau, Quebec on the St Lawrence Seaway and ends (631 miles later) at Happy Valley/Goose Bay in Labrador.  We did not measure it exactly, but there must be over 450 miles of gravel-surface.  The quality of this surface is generally very good and is frequently graded.  But, during rains, the 18 wheel trucks quickly pound potholes and areas where the road is being repaired can be very rough.  Maybe around 50% of this road is smooth enough for travel at 40 to 50 MPH.  The roughest parts will rattle your teeth at 10 MPH.  

I had seen this road on maps during previous trips to Canada and thought that it might be fun to explore this part of the world..  But all the advice I could get was that the road did not yet qualify for travel by senior Texans in a little motorhome.  But, while traveling through Newfoundland, I quizzed the locals about the road and it became clear that this road has been improved to the point that a motorhome could make the trip – maybe without falling apart on the road.  Having traveled into the far northern Canada on previous trips, we suffered from no delusions about the scenery along the road.  It would be made up primarily of small, black spruce, glacier-graded terrain, muskeg, blackflies, mosquitoes, caribou, moose and very few people.  Somebody told us that the total population of this huge area of Labrador is about 30,000 people.  Many of these are Innu and Innuit “first people” – as they like to call themselves. 

Freedom Highway

 

When I first read about this road maybe 10 years ago, a 4-wheel drive vehicle was recommended – especially in winter.  But now, all kinds of autos can be seen on the road.  Nobody and I mean nobody travels this road a slowly as we did.  I don’t remember passing a single vehicle.  But everybody passed us.  So I busy dodging potholes on both sides of the road.  I wobble back and forth across the lanes.  Suddenly, a huge truck – that I failed to see in the rearview mirror -- zoomed by and I’m glad I didn’t zig or zag into his lane as he was passing.  

When telling about this adventure to a friend, we were asked: “what in the world motivated you to explore such a remote road?”

“Well, a little insanity helps” I replied.  “But mostly we did it because it’s there.”

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