Ireland and New Grange

Ireland and New Grange

Newgrange Man

 

October 8, 2007

Pat is sometimes terrified of closed-in places.  She became so claustrophobic in a west Texas cavern many years ago that she became a little sick, and has refused to enter any kind of cave since.  But, here we were at the Newgrange Neolithic necropolis in Ireland and Pat entered its tight, dark underground entrance with little trouble.  We could not both enter at the same time because Newgrange is a World Heritage Center and favored tourist attraction in this part of the world.  When we entered the visitor center, a sign informed us that all tours were sold out for the day.  But, when we tried to sign up for a later tour, the receptionist informed us that two positions had just become available – one on each of the last two tours of the day.  So, Pat walked across the footbridge over the Boyne River and caught the bus to the Stone Age passage tomb while I took a little nap, visited the Newgrange Museum and waited my turn.  

The timing was great. My bus arrived at the same time that Pat was leaving.  When she informed me that she had no real problem entering the 5000-year-old tomb, I was very surprised.  So now it was my turn.  Our tour guide stopped in front of the large, earth-covered mound and explained what is known and assumed about this tomb.  It is thought to be about 5000 years old, so it predates the Great Pyramids of Egypt by several centuries.  It is certainly one of the most remarkable prehistoric sites in Europe. Its purpose is uncertain, but it is thought to be a burial place for kings or a place for rituals.

In preparing us for the visit inside, our guide instructed us to carry backpacks and cameras either on our front or back because the passage is very narrow and fairly dark and he didn’t want any of us to get stuck.  He said that if anyone was claustrophobic, they should enter last so that they would have an unimpeded escape route if panic set in.  I must admit to feeling very uncomfortable when both shoulders simultaneously rubbed against the rock walls of the dark, low passage.  I wondered how a rather heavy lady nearby had managed to pass through this section.  After squeezing through this passage for maybe 30 yards (seemed like a mile), we came to an open area where we all gathered and filled the available space

One of the major features of this tour is to explain that this tomb was designed so that in the early morning of the winter solstice, sunlight penetrates the entrance and lights up the chamber.  To illustrate, he turned off all lights in the tomb.  Now it was dark – I mean really dark.  I could see absolutely nothing and it was no fun at all.  He left us there in the darkness for maybe 30 seconds, then turned on a small light at the tunnel entrance to simulate sunlight at the winter solstice.  It was amazing.  As that small beam of light became brighter, it eventually lit up the entire tomb.

He then explained that there are so many visitors who wish to see this phenomenon that there is no way to accommodate them all on the morning of the winter solstice.  So, a lottery system has been set up and the winners get to crowd into this tiny space to view the small shaft of sunlight as it enters the tomb.  There is one small problem with this arrangement.  If it is rainy or cloudy on the winter solstice, there is no rain-check.  And, since it is often rainy or cloudy in Ireland, many of the lottery winners must leave unfulfilled.  Oh well!  In spite of this problem, all slots are filled for several years into the future.  Anyone can sign up for this lottery and it is free, so now is your chance.

Newgrange Kid

Check out this National Geographic story on:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVXWZkwV0RQ

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