Mexico and Hotelito Desconocido

Mexico and Hotelito Desconocido

 

January 22, 2002

Steven Howell, the author of  “A Bird-Finding Guide to Mexico,” suggested that when driving south of Puerto Vallarta, we should stop at El Tuito, Jalisco to watch for Military Macaws in a valley there.  We had left the motorhome in Puerto Vallarta and were driving only the Honda. After missing our turn, we turned around on the curvy, hilly highway (always a dangerous thing to do) and made the correct turn.  A few miles down a dirt road, we stopped at a nice overlook and found a few interesting warblers.  A white van passed on the road and the driver gave us a big wave and a “Hola.” 

“Looks like a bunch of birders with their guide,” I told Pat.  Having benefitted in bird identifications and suggestions from these guides before in Mexico, I reckoned that we should follow them.  Maybe they could lead us to the elusive Military Macaws.  We followed the tracks of their van down the hill to an open gate and across a deep ditch that took two tries for our 4-wheel Honda to cross.  The tracks led us down a gully-washed dirt road showing lots of donkey and cow tracks but traveled infrequently by autos.  The going was very rough -- leading steeply downhill.  Far ahead through the pine trees, we could see the van parked in the valley.  We debated turning around but decided to keep going.  After crossing a rough, rocky stream bed, we arrived at a small, one-room shack with a white van parked outside.  As we pulled up to the gate, we could see that these were not Gringo birders; this was a Mexican family.  Now we felt like intruders and did not know what kind of welcome we might receive.  Again indecision -- until a man waved us in.  I felt a little foolish for being over-certain that these were birders, but my rationale was that professional birding guides often carry their customers around in white vans.

Anyway, we parked beside the van and were invited in under the palm-covered portal.  Not to worry, these folks were typical of most Mexicans we have met.  They were exceedingly friendly and we made easy conversation.  Me in my broken Spanish and he is his broken English.  His name was Aurelio and his wife’s name was Victoria.  The property we were on was their weekend get-away place.  Aurelio owns another ranch closer to Puerto Vallarta, where he makes a living giving horse rides to tourists.  A son of about 12 and a daughter about 10 was with them.  An older son of 17 had more important things to do in the city today.  The daughter was busy washing out a small, above-ground swimming pool.  Victoria was busy washing off the counter where food would be prepared.  Water had been turned on into a small canal to irrigate some small avocado, lime and mango trees around the house.

He explained that he had lived in Houston 20 years ago and had wanted to live there permanently.  But Victoria did not wish to live with strangers in Houston when she could live with friends and family in Mexico.

I explained that we were birding and that I had thought he was a birder and that is why we had followed him.  That it was not our intent to invite ourselves onto his property and interfere with his family weekend.  Victoria’s grandmother came out with an Orange-fronted Parakeet and placed it on the limb of a tree.  Aurelio explained that the Guacamayas (Macaws) often fly directly over his weekend home during the late afternoon.  Since it was about noon, we took a family photo,  said our goodbyes and headed for the Altamira Restaurant Aurilio recommended.  “Tell them Aurilio sent you,” he said.  “Please come and stay anytime you wish.”

Aurelio and Victoria

 

While eating lunch at the Altamira Restaurant on the highway south of Puerto Vallarta, Pat and I watched birds from our hill-top table of the little rancho while waiting for lunch to be served.  A Gringo at a table next to ours suggested a neat birding location.  He explained that he was a musician (manager) who lived in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico City, and Houston, Texas.  You should stop at a place named Hotelito Desconocido.  “I have stayed there several times and the birding is excellent.  The head of the California Parks System stays there and claims that it is one of the best birding sites in Mexico.  It is a little expensive, but times are hard in the Mexican tourist industry because of September 11th so you should be able to get special rates.  Just ask for Ferdinanda and tell her that Michael sent you.” 

“Wow!  Thanks for the advice,” I said.  “Do you happen to own the establishment?” 

Michael laughed and assured me that he had no financial interest in the place and that he only recommended it because we were birders and he was sure we would enjoy it there.  “About 20 miles south you will see a small hotel sign.  Turn there and go about 15 miles to this ocean-front hotel.  You should know that they have no electricity in their rooms, but they provide ample lighting with candles.  It is a very unusual place.”

After the 15 miles south, we turned off the main highway toward the beach, the pavement ended and turned into cobblestone.  After several miles, we came to the main gate.  It was locked, but a gatekeeper appeared.  “Do you have rooms?” I asked.

“No, we have none,” came a gruff reply.

“But we have come a long way and Michael sent us.”

“Sorry, we have no rooms,” he said again.

“Maybe we could take a tour of the place,” I said in desperation.  It was growing late in the afternoon and we were a long way from any other hotels.

The gatekeeper broke out a radiophone and called someone to ask if we could take a tour.  The answer came quickly.  The gatekeeper told us that we could now enter.  Upon arriving at the hotel desk, I asked if rooms were available.  “Yes, rooms are available,” the clerk said.  “The lowest rate that we have for two persons is $520 US dollars per night.”  I swallowed hard and looked for some signal from Pat.  It was negative.  So I dropped my trump card.  

“Michael sent us and told us that Ferdinanda might give us special rates.”

“Ferdinanda is in Puerto Vallarta today and cannot be reached by phone.”

“Perhaps you could give us special rates,” I implored.

“No, you must call our office in Puerto Vallarta,” he said.

Totally defeated, I suggested that maybe we could take a tour of the facilities and maybe see some birds.  The clerk agreed.  

“You should know that the daily rates cover everything,” he said.  “When you want breakfast, just raise the flag and your breakfast will be delivered by boat.  All our meals are gourmet quality with only the freshest ingredients.  Horseback riding, boats, games, swimming and such are always available to our guests at no additional cost.”

In a too-short, ten minute tour, we saw a few birds – but nothing new.  “In one week, biologists have counted over 450 species of birds,” the clerk claimed.  OK, so the birding was going to be great – but worth $520 per night?  He handed us a brochure extolling the virtues of the hotel.  It was composed of romantic photos and parts of reviews by travel experts.  For example, Marie Claire (whoever that is) in April ‘99 said, “Hotelito exists in perfect harmony with its delicate surroundings, including one of the most important sea turtle reserves in Mexico.  Caring for the natural habitat without compromising the guest’s comforts.”  

The New York Times reported, “A resort that combines luxury with a love for the environment.”  

USA Today said, “The creator of the Hotelito has stood the traditional notion of luxury on its head.  In the process, he may have created the best little hotel in Mexico.”

Hotelito’s own brochure reads, “Have you ever galloped along miles of virgin beach at sunset? . . . biked through palm groves? . . . taken a siesta in a hammock gently swaying over an estuary? . . . been massaged with essential oils al fresco? . . . played a game of billiards by candlelight?  Isn’t it time to enjoy some of life’s irrefutable pleasures?  The Beach club Nopalito is an oasis overlooking 40 miles of unspoiled beach.  Float in the ingenious saltwater pool, with the sound of the crashing Pacific Ocean, just steps away . . .”  And on and on.

Well, Hotelito was quaint and the luxury was somewhat apparent, but guests sleep in doorless, thatch-roofed huts without electricity and pay through the nose for the experience.  Too rich for our blood.  But if you are looking for a romantic hideaway for a honeymoon or something, maybe this is your place.

After our visit, we were in for a long drive down into the Manzanillo area where we could find a hotel.  We no longer had anyone’s advice to rely on, but found a hotel before dark on the beach at Malaque.  It cost us only $35. We wondered how Hotelito could be so expensive and if a stay there would really be worth the cost.  But by not staying there, we will never know.

http://www.luxurylink.com/5star/hotels/la-cruz-de-loreto-mexico/hotelito-desconocido

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